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Climb: Triumph -NE Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 7/25/2005

 

Trip Report:

Well go figure another weekday and no one available to climb. Jason who I had been with in the Bugs pulled up lame with a bum knee on the way out so we jammed all the way home on Saturday. I still had time off and wanted to climb so off to Triumph I went.

I went in to the lakes Sunday evening hoping to do a little fishing while I was up there. Nothing doing on that end...no suprise there I never catch anything.

So I set up a nice camp up above the outlet of the middle lake kind of by the big talus field leading over to the steep slope below the notch.

I got up and moving around 7:30 this morning and quickly made it up to the notch. The views of the Pickets and Triumph are outstanding. The snow was soft enough that no crampons were needed and crossing the snow and slabs to the base of the climb was no problem.

The climbing reminded me of being like the Toof. Like four of them staked up next to each other like a big staircase of Toofs. Except that the exposure was much greater on Triumph. I made the summit by 10:30 and was lounging around in the sun enjoying the views when I finally got the notion to start the series of raps leading back down the thing.

Many single rope raps and a few stuck ropes and one interesting encounter with a little critter that I'm not sure what it was led back down to the notch.

The glacier tried to use me as a bowling pin with ice chunks on the way back across the basin to the notch but these were pretty much easily avoided.

The scree/climbers trail is a big pain on the way down but went quickly. Soon I had camp all packed up and was making hay down the switchbacks toward the car.

I made the mandatory stop at Good Food in Marblemount for a Double Whammy and an espresso milkshake and the people there looked at me like I was from another planet cause I hadn't showered for about 9 days. And I looked at them crazy too because they bear an uncanny resemblance to the Adams Family or something weird like that. MMM Good Food. So yummy.

Coupla pics:

triumphFromNotch(2).jpg

Baker.jpg

SouthernPicketsFromSummit(2).jpg

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Posted

Nice pix. I like this line the best "The climbing reminded me of being like the Toof. Like four of them staked up next to each other like a big staircase of Toofs."

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