summitseeker Posted September 12, 2001 Posted September 12, 2001 Climbed this one a few weeks back from the lakes. Not much to report for most of it -- just a long screen slog up until the last two moves. Don't believe what you read in Beckey. The last two moves to the summit block are mid-5th (approx. 5.6) and exposed to a 30-40 foot fall. There is a rap anchor on the summit, although I didn't inspect it (I was solo w/no rope). And, don't waste your time on the east horn. The summit's on the west one. Quote
Dru Posted September 12, 2001 Posted September 12, 2001 Oh yeah, how dare anyone "waste their time" doing something other than going to the highest summit... next thing you know they will be climbing girdle traverses and we all know that real climbing is only about getting on top. Let me know when you save the $$$$ to have us guided up Everest Quote
goatboy Posted September 12, 2001 Posted September 12, 2001 Doesn't seem like the sort of person who seeks out Golden Horn is the sort to be seeking being guided up Everest's summit to me . . . I saw Golden Horn from Black Peak a few weeks ago -- it certainly presents a striking skyline, though doesn't look to be very attractive as far as climbing goes... On the other hand, speaking of traverses, a traverse from Golden Horn to Tower Mtn might be an enjoyable alpine scramble . . . How do you approach that thing, go up the Hart's Pass Road or something? Quote
Dru Posted September 12, 2001 Posted September 12, 2001 I was just being snarky... the statement that one summit is lower so you shouldnt waste your time on it[sic] set my teeth on edge. Quote
Dru Posted September 12, 2001 Posted September 12, 2001 So that means the conglomerated Caveman-Borbon-Chepe-[other names suppressed by request] total is up to 1500 or what? I woudn't even post this but no one else has pposted anything in an hour, c'mon post more people, I am bored at work. [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 09-12-2001).] Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 12, 2001 Posted September 12, 2001 I dont know man I am not counting it all. I would bet that is pretty close though. I thought you were bouldering with Whillans. Or has he got another hot chick to hit on in the library? Quote
Dru Posted September 12, 2001 Posted September 12, 2001 Whillans said he was coming by the office but i don't know if he actually knows where I work....? Hey MA i get off at three if you are keen or 430 if you aren't keen on climbing but want to drink. Quote
summitseeker Posted September 12, 2001 Author Posted September 12, 2001 Should have been more clear on what I meant by "waste your time". It is actually quite fun to try to find the way to the top of the east horn -- there is an exposed ledge you can traverse around on with a clear view down the ~1,000 ft. North Face, but I couldn't find a way to get to the top that I was willing to try solo. It's way exposed. The north face looks like it would be a great climb. [This message has been edited by summitseeker (edited 09-12-2001).] Quote
Dru Posted September 12, 2001 Posted September 12, 2001 Doesn't the Beckey guide say that the N. face was reported as a classic by the first ascent party but subsequently has been called loose and dangerous, or am I thinking of another route? Quote
summitseeker Posted September 12, 2001 Author Posted September 12, 2001 I haven't actually read the route description in Beckey. But it is one imposing precipice and it does have a striking profile. I'll check it out tonight. Quote
summitseeker Posted September 12, 2001 Author Posted September 12, 2001 I approached via Rainy Pass PCT over Cutthroat pass. Follow the trail down to Granite Pass and traverse across the seemingly endless Swamp Creek Drainage. Then take the small side-trail up to the lakes (about 12 miles from the trailhead). You can also go in via the Cutthroat Lake trailhead and over Methow pass I believe. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 13, 2001 Posted September 13, 2001 What Drul be a smart ass?! I dont believe it! Joining the 1000 club Quote
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