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Yosemite trip

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Yosemite climbing trip: June 22 through June 26, 2005.

 

Squamish was looking dim with the weather report forecasting rain and more rain. "Screw it", we said and jumped onto plan B, Yosemite. 3 full days and over 2500 total feet accomplished, we made the right decision. We arrived at Camp 4 Wednesday evening, “fucking mosquitoes’, just before dark with no chance of getting a spot, so we decided to go stealth. A short quick climb and dark set in masking our intentions. We awoke at an early 5:30am to sit in line at the forest ranger booth to press our luck in gaining a legal spot to camp. 9:00a.m., a spot to sleep and 1000 mosquitoes bits later, we were off to climb Goodrich Pinnacle (5.9 - 7 pitches) on Glacier Point Apron. The climb started slow due to the party in front of us and the easy first few pitches. Around pitch 4 the climb opened up a few new doors to my excitement. The climbers above us bailed from the start of pitch 5 and the leader mentioned that he didn't want to kill the belayer if he fell. Hmm, “hard/run out”, I asked? A nod and wide eyes confirmed my guess. Pitch 5 was a little balance but not too bad. Pitch 6 was fun and kept my ass puckered as I traversed the run out slab to an intermediate anchor. 3 bolts up a smooth slab to 40 feet of run out on less than dime edges was no 5.9 that I’ve climbed before, “I though to myself”. Dr Joe confirmed my conclusion with the words, “how the fuck did you get up this”. I Replied, “Carefully”. The last pitch was a little different with a wide, easy chimney. Over all, the climb was good but the rapping sucked. The rope got stuck at least twice on every pitch coming down. Once we were on the ground we downed some food and headed over to Cookie Cliff to try and get a few more in before night. Cookie Cliff was stiff!

 

The next day we got up fairly not too early and eat tons of food for our day of climbing ahead. Off too Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9 – 5 pitches) on Middle Catheridal. This is a classic and we were surprised to be the first to get on it. Not more than an hour passed when I looked down to see a line for the route. The first pitch was nice but the second pitch was the shit with a sustained finger crack, “which I enjoyed”, up to a comfortable belay. Up pitch 3 you come to a 5.7 roof that played with my head a little too much. I had a little trouble jamming my way over it but I gave myself an excuse by saying “5.7 my ass”. Then I saw Joe move gracefully through it making it look like a 5.5, “bastard”. Over the roof came the first real off width I’ve experienced. Bring your grey or maybe a few of them. I had to move Mr. Grey up as I climbed until I could fit Mr. Blue. The rest of the climb was fun as well. A must do Yosemite climb from my perspective. Still plenty of day light out so we headed over to Pat and Jacks Pinnacle. We got on Trough of Justice (10B) and once you clip the first, second, third bolt, your high enough, “50 feet off the ground”, to not have a ground fall. We also got on a route just right of Babble On which was fairly stiff down low to some good moves higher up. Night has fallen so back to camp we go.

 

Feeling worked in a good way we headed to the last climb of the trip. Northeast Buttress (5.9 – 11 pitches) on Higher Cathedral. Dam I wish we would have started earlier than 11:00 am. The approach was uphill all the way and the whine of the “Joeasaurus” was increasing. Route finding was difficult but over all, this climb was strong and one of the best climbs I’ve been on. Too long of climb to give details since I’m at work and my boss is lurking. Lots of roofs from finger laybacks, to hand jams, to arm jams. The various off widths destroyed my legs, back, arms, water bottle. Ect, but well worth it. Walking off the back in the dark was one of the cruxes. We were able to make it down to hit the showers and sleep for about 2 hours before we headed back to Portland. What’s next Joe? Let’s get on it.

 

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Yos is the place! Nice job on the NE of Higher. That is a notoriously stiff 5.9. One of the best routes of the grade anywhere though. How were the temps when you were there?

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