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klotzy

Good place to practice Glacial Skills

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I am looking for suggestions on a place to take my 14 year old son who has experience climbing but has never been on a mountain. I am looking for someplace where I can teach him ice axe arrest, crevasse rescue, snow anchors, etc... The problem is that I would like to spend a few days working on that and then summit which is why I have ruled out Baker or Rainer. I have thought about Mt. Daniel, Sahale, or perhaps the Stuart Range but would very much like to here what you have to say. A small technical rock climb is great but would like to have the option to bail at any point. Suggestions of great base camps with various options would be much appreciated.

Thanks again

Mike

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I'm curious, why did you rule out Baker and Rainer if your plan is as you state? One can camp at the hogsback and get plenty of arrest and glacier practice in. Once you have some basic skills online the seracs on the Roosevelt glacier are pretty good for crevase practice too. Then summit on whichever day you want. Easy in, easy out.

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quien sabe glacier on sahale peak. The skills area is a little far from camp (hour or so) but the glacier is mellow.

 

South side of baker. Sounds good for what you are asking for. Are you looking for a glacier that you will unlikey fall into? Baker too big? Give the easton another consideration.

 

Daniel is not that great of a route for what you are asking for. Could climb it without any glaciers at all.

 

Shuksan sulphide glacier would be good. Mellow glacier. Cool little scramble to the top. Great skills area but very few crevasses that you can do actual crevasse rescue in.

 

Mt hood?

 

Colchuck glacier area. Very little (if any) crevasses. Pretty cool though.

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Mt. Hood's Eliot Glacier is a good spot for crevasse rescue and ice climbing. there are usually some steeper snow slopes up towards Cooper Spur that are good for self arrest practice. Then drive to the southside and do that route (or head up the Sunshine route).

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My only reason for ruling out Baker is that it just might be a bit to big for a first time trip. He is my step son and while we have climbed many times together he has never carried a pack for more than a day and I don't want to overload him with such a physical climb right out of the gate.

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I hadn't thought of Shuksan, that could be a perfect choice. I also considered Queen Sabe Glacier especially with the little scramble at the end but where are you considering this practice area. Is it on the route? You mentioned an hour away are you thinking over on the Boston Glacier? Thanks for your suggestions.

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The practise area on sahale is the snowed slabs right below the glacier on the far left side of the glacier area. Some smaller crevasses right above that which is right below sharkfin tower. It takes a while to get there from the regular campspots. Might be hard to find non glaciated snowslopes later in the year.

 

If you go light then your kids pack shouldn't be so bad.

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