off_the_hook Posted July 16, 2005 Posted July 16, 2005 Climb: Forbidden Peak-West Ridge Date of Climb: 7/15/2005 Trip Report: Short Story: Climbed the West Ridge of Forbidden in a day with descent of Northeast ledges. Both routes were in good shape. It was nice to be the only party on Forbidden. Long Story: My good friend and I drove out to the Boston Basin trailhead Thursday evening and got a few hours rest before we set out for the West Ridge of Forbidden at 3 am. We knew that weather was coming in Friday, so we abandoned earlier thoughts of doing Torment-Forbidden Traverse. Either way, this was a first time on Forbidden for either of us, so we knew it was going to be fun. Doing an approach we had both never done at night was sure to be interesting. We hit the approach hard with headlamps and made it up to Boston Basin with very little route finding problems. At Boston Basin, we lost the trail to Forbidden somehow, but still cruised up to the West Couloir in good time. The couloir is still snow filled with one moat a little past halfway up that is starting to open, but it’s still straightforward. The snow was soft at the bottom and a little hard towards the top. From the top of the snow, we chose the wrong gully up to the West Ridge which took some time but once on the West Ridge route, we cruised up to the summit, mostly free-climbing, and pitching out the 5.6 pin. We made the summit at 8 am as clouds were beginning to stream in from the northwest. A few photos (obligatory summit pose) and we were off the summit and rapping off the Northeast ledges. We rapped five times with some scrambling to the last ledge before it cliffs out before the Boston Glacier. Here, the ledge traverse to the East begins, at first descending and then ascending to the col along the east ridge. At this point, the descent should have been easy, but we chose another wrong gully and ended up using some more time to work out a wet, cliffy couloir. We finally made it back to Boston Basin and took a nice break in the last sunlight to eat and rest. The descent from here went quickly and we arrived at the car at 12:30 pm, 9.5 hours after beginning, and just as the rain drops began to fall! I can see why the West Ridge of Forbidden is so famous: great solid rock, sheer exposure, and impressive views. With an awesome partner and a nice weather window, the West Ridge was really fun. It was also cool to be the only people on the Forbidden that day. Route finding cost us at least a couple hours on the approach gullies, but we took it in stride and enjoyed the time on the mountain. Next time, route finding will not be an issue when we climb Forbidden and the Torment-Forbidden traverse. Gear Notes: ice axe, small rack, rope brought crampons but didn't use them. Approach Notes: trail muddy in sections, snow soft except in upper West Couloir. Quote
Alpine_Dreamer Posted July 16, 2005 Posted July 16, 2005 Wow, beautiful pics! Nice job on the climb, too. What's the peak just to the left of Buckner in the 2nd picture? Now I really need to get up there - thanks for the stoke! Quote
TeleRoss Posted July 16, 2005 Posted July 16, 2005 The pointy black pyramid immediately left of Buckner is Goode, the larger massif on the left of the photo is Logan. Quote
chucK Posted July 16, 2005 Posted July 16, 2005 thanks for the pics. Smokin' time, way to beat the weather. Quote
goatboy Posted July 16, 2005 Posted July 16, 2005 I really appreciate TR's like this one, which deliver succinct personal impressions of the climb, useful and timely information about conditions which will help others, and well-chosen excellent photographs. Thanks for a great TR and nice work on one of the best routes of its type in this amazing range! Quote
goatboy Posted July 16, 2005 Posted July 16, 2005 Yes, nice colors. The photographer composed the shot somewhat similarly to the cover of Kearney's climbing guidebook* * Which is sort of what naturally happens when you're on the summit looking back towards Moraine Lake. If there's a bright colored red or orange jacket, I give it to my partner so they can create the sort of contrast in this photo! Quote
Dr_Crash Posted July 16, 2005 Posted July 16, 2005 Nice TR and awesome pics! I've had two planned trips to that ridge cancelled this year because of weather, and I so want to climb it... drC Quote
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