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S.Early Winter Spire this weekend?


pete_a

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I'm thinking about heading up to do the SW coulior on S. Early Winter Spire this weekend and am lookin' for some beta. I saw the previous posts from several weeks ago on this route and I'm curious if you all think it would be a waste of time to head up this now, or if there would still be some good snow to climb on in the coulior. Can I get away with bringing a smaller rope (should I use my little 8mm glacier rope or bring a 10.5mm 25m long rope, or bring a full length rope) Thanks.

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A short thin rope (like 30m 8-8.5mm) will be fine. Crampons and ice axe and maybe a short "third tool" for your other hand in case it's icy. The route should be in good shape now. You might take one ice screw and a few chocks, but probably won't need them. This route is not long, but is a fun way to the top at this time of year.

Have fun!

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I did the SW Couloir for the 2nd time this season last Friday. There's actually more snow than there was when the highway first opened. Neither time did I climb with a rope though other parties we saw did use one. I doubt you will find anything to put a screw in. A few nuts, pickets, and a rope for rappeling will do. Both times we descended the arete route. I wouldn't do that again since it's a bit of work (more interesting than the climb) but it 's bettern than kicking stuff down on people climbing the couloir,

have fun

 

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Thanks for the beta, I really appreciate it. One more question though...I'm doing the approach on my tele gear, so I'm while I'm sure climbing up the coulior is fine in T1's with crampons...is last little part of the route to reach the top going to need a pair of mountaineering boots? Thanks

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