[TR] Stuart- Stuart Ice Cliff Glacier 6/22/2005

[tyree]

Climb: Stuart-Stuart Ice Cliff Glacier

 

Date of Climb: 6/22/2005

 

Trip Report:

We went and climbed the Stuart Ice Cliff Glacier last Sunday. I tried to post earlier but was working all week and climbing yesterday. Anyhow it was a great trip, albiet a little out of prime season we still managed to pull it off.

The weather was really warm but the aspect of the route allowed for most of it to be climbed in the shade.

The Ice cliff was pretty tame, I was able to climb it with one tool. The crux of the route proved to be the bergschrund above the ice cliff. There was a skethcy ice runnel partialy spaning the gaping schrund. It was about two and a half feet thick at the base. I thought this was dangerous and opted to end run the schrund and climb ice through cliff bands.The ice was shit and in retrospect it probaly wasnt any safer than the partial bridge that the other party we were with took without incident.

Great cramponing led to the upper coulior that near the cornice was waist deep potato soup. Once the soup was devoured it was a chill scramble to the summit

We decended the Sherpa Glacier. The initial coulior was steep soup around 40 degrees and we were kicking of sluff avys the whole way

We found a pretty good alternative to the talus/ boulderfield approach on the way out. It follows the middle fork of mountianeer creek.

 

Gear Notes:

three ice screws, two tools, crampons.

[TeleRoss]

Nice. Sounds like fun. Especially swimming through potato soup.

Did you by chance notice how much snow was left on the upper N Ridge?

[tyree]

From what I could see there was very little if any at all on the ridge proper, but the gendarm bypass was choked with snow

[layton]

did ya go with Ted?

[tyree]

Stranger Ted from AAI or Shits In Lakes Ted? Well either way there was no Ted.

[Steddy]