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Posted

I climbed the Coleman Headwall on Sep.9 with two partners.

We started at about three from the parking lot. Traversed to the base of the Roman Nose at approx 8000'. The bottom of the Nose was volcanic rock, don't fall here.

We had to negotiate a couple crevasses with some relatively steep, but short, ice climbing to get to the base.

There was approx 2000' of moderate ice climbing. We started way left, and ended up wandering back and forth as the route dictated. We simul climbed and usually had 2 ice screws in at any given point.

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Posted

Cal, nice job, and congratulations!! What was your round trip duration? How many were in your party? Are you guys sub-four-minute-miler animals, or just fit climbers with real jobs? Was the route falling apart, or do you imagine it will remain climbable? I have wanted to do that route ever since we passed beneath it on our way to doing the N Ridge in one push, car-to-car.

Posted

How did the Direct, aka McDonald/Mather Route, look? How were those seracs of death on top of it?

[This message has been edited by Dru (edited 09-20-2001).]

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