Toast Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 (edited) Climb: Colchuck-Colchuck Glacier Date of Climb: 6/4/2005 Trip Report: Dustin, Scott and I were planning on Forbidden this weekend, but colder than desired temps and a deteriorating forecast caused us to readjust plans. It was the second to last weekend before permit season kicks in, so we figured we'd take advantage of that. We left the car at 6:15. Heading up was chilly but perfect once we warmed up. The talus field was open and easy to negotiate. The first snow we hit was in the glacier's basin. We soloed up the left chute but tried to steer as far away from Dragontail's walls as much as possible. A grapefruit sized rock came whizzing past my head about 50 mph. Be smart and wear a helmet. On average the slope was 30-40 degrees with firm snow in the morning. We hit the col about 11:30 and took a nice break in the sun. The way up to the summit was 3rd class in some places but mostly we wandered from snow patch to snowpatch hopping a few boulders along the way. We spent a fair amount of time lollygagging, but made it back to the cars about 6:30. On the way down we must have passed 20-30 climbers who were planning to climb the next day. Too bad for them, cuz it rained the whole morning while we were tucked snuggly in bed. We stopped by the Rockfest festivities, but were too late for any grub. Gear Notes: Brought: rope, harness, pickets Used: Crampons and ice axe Approach Notes: Snow free to upper basin just below glacier. Hard packed snow. Wear a helmet. Edited June 5, 2005 by Toast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 On the way down we must have passed 20-30 climbers who were planning to climb the next day. Too bad for them, cuz it rained the whole morning while we were tucked snuggly in bed. Thanks for rubbin' it in ya jerk! Actually, I had a great time hiking out from the N. side of Stewie in the rain on Sunday. Really I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted June 6, 2005 Author Share Posted June 6, 2005 heh heh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 perty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 Actually, I had a great time hiking out from the N. side of Stewie in the rain on Sunday. Really I did. Did you get to climb in the Icicle canyon? Cuz the sun dried up all the rain and the rock climbing was real good that sunday afternoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 ...and the eensy, weensy spider climbed up the spout again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 Actually, I had a great time hiking out from the N. side of Stewie in the rain on Sunday. Really I did. Did you get to climb in the Icicle canyon? Cuz the sun dried up all the rain and the rock climbing was real good that sunday afternoon. Unfortunately not. I was in a group of four and only two of us stashed rock shoes in the car . Shoulda just made them our belay beyotches. Oh well. I was pretty tired and the mocha milkshakes at the 59er Diner were calling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steddy Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 planning on Forbidden this weekend, but colder than desired temps and a deteriorating forecast caused us to readjust plans forbidden was fine, just fine on saturday -- (as colchuck was too!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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