Lowering off of fixed anchors

[XXX]

1 & 2 = good

3 = bad

 

Yes, it wears on the chains, but it's done 90% of the time at the crags. That doesn't make it right, but it's common practice. Most sport climbers lead, clip to chains, thread rope through chains, re-tie, then get lowered and clean.

It is even expained in some instruction books, specifically, I think John Long's Advanced Rock Climbing.

Rapping the chains is best on the anchors. I don't always rap, I re-tie and lower because it's faster or sometimes easier. Top-Roping the chains is very bad, but I bet 90% of the people here have done it or still do it from time to time. I see it EVERY time I got toa popular crag. I've seen people on this site do it. I've done it too.

 

I agree, i have seen this done, plenty of times at the crags. I am guilty of it myself. I am not saying its right, but most of the sport climbers I know just lower off. Now if you dont believe this, well!! I dont do it anymore =)

Edited June 13, 2005 by XXX

[billcoe]

Lot of statistics posted earlier. The real truth is that 80 percent of the time 45 percent of the previous posters are incorrect in 60 percent of their posts.........

 

 

...........what the hell was the question?

 

Oh-

 

Chains? What chains? You guys need to get out and do some real climbing. We don't need no stinking chains man.

 

Wait, the probable correct answer is "try not to."

[Peter_Puget]

Let's all lower and TR but throw a length of chain and a wrench in our packs for repairs.

 

A length or two of chain is pretty cheap and can easily be replaced on most anchors. If people were to get in the habit of replacing worn gear, this question would be of little interest.

[Ed_Hobbick]

 

I was just reading in the Smith Rock guide book about this. It says that if your going to be doing an extensive top-roping session to use your own biner. It implies that lowering off and then a couple of top ropes through the chain is fine.

[miladugga]

I usually put a quickdraw in each anchor, lower off using them, TR my partner up who cleans the route and then raps off. Anything wrong with that?

[Dr_Crash]

Nothing wrong, no. That's the right thing.

 

Many guidebooks talk about lowering through the chains rather than rappeling. The Exit 38/32 guides (at least 38) too. So we shouldn't be surprised to see it.

 

drC