[TR] Triumph- NE Ridge 5/28/2005

[robertm]

Climb: Triumph-NE Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 5/28/2005

 

Trip Report:

Climbed NE ridge on Saturday. Some snow in Col... none on approach (patches between lower and middle lake)

 

Lots of Ice worms on glacier... really warm not much post hole action as snow seemed to set up pretty good.

 

Rock on the ridge was dry and snow free. backed up sketchy anchors and left biners on stations without rap rings. Took just as long down as up... 4 hours from base with party of 3. 4 hours down.

 

Just off crutches with a bad ankle sprain... taped up good and went for it. Got flu on day of climb which made it more of a sufferfest than it should have been. Awesome views of the surrounding peaks! Go get it.

 

Gear Notes:

light rack: #1, #2, #3 set of nuts and #6,7,8 Hexes... lots of slings

 

Approach Notes:

a little snow between lower and middle lake. Running water at Col. Notch bivy on ridge was snow covered.

[John Frieh]

 

Did you get any pics or take a look at the north face? Dry?

[thelawgoddess]

ice worms? gross!!! thanks for the tr, though.

[robertm]

North face looked good. It had some significant snow patches... I would give it another couple of weeks to melt off. It looked like there were plenty of ledges where the snow collected.

[layton]

NOLSe, don't get overly excited about the north face as a rock route. it's not as inspiring up close. if you want to do it, go over triumph pass...not down from the NE ridge notch.

[robertm]

Approach:

 

Across the Glacier...

 

On the ridge:

 

On the crest...

 

Pickets from Summit.