Toulome Meadows Area Alpine Rock Climbs

[Darren]

My buddy Dave and I are headed for Toulome Meadows area in late June/early July. I have the SuperTopo guide and am stoked about Connes, Mathes Crest, Cathedral Peak and Tenaya Peak among others. Wondering if those of you who've climbed in the area can reccomend some other good climbs with similar character. We'll have about 10 days. Looking for anything up to 5.8. Long approach is OK.

 

Thanks for your insight.

 

Darren

[chucK]

There might still be a bunch of snow up there at that time.

 

Might want to keep your eyes on this

Tioga Road Plowing update

[thelawgoddess]

are you only sticking to alpine stuff in the meadows? if not, i might recommend royal arches (5.6) and snake dike (5.8). sorry; i haven't done much climbing in tuolumne but if you'd like a short non-alpine climb up there that's fun, i'd recommend hermaphrodite flake (5.8). (we did the tunnel/under version - yeehaw.)

[AlpineK]

As of right now the road to Toulome is closed and I read that there was 30' of snow at Tioga pass. The weather has turned warm down there, but I bet there's still going to be a lot of snow at the end of June.

[rhyang]

As of right now the road to Toulome is closed and I read that there was 30' of snow at Tioga pass. The weather has turned warm down there, but I bet there's still going to be a lot of snow at the end of June.

 

Tioga road plowing update - local word is that it may be July before this thing is open, but it's anyone's guess.

[MATT_B]

The first time I went there (95) was a very heavy snow year. The road didn't open until mid July. It is my understanding that this year was a very heavy snow year too. Based on that, I would expect you will encounter snow even on the approach to many of the domes close to the road. Many of those domes are at around 8000 feet and the peaks you named are in the 10-12 thousand foot range. I would recomend skiis, ice axe and crampons. Keep an eye on the snow pack. Part of the reason for the late opening in 95 was that the snow plow driver was killed in a big slide. As far as recomendations for other peaks, a traverse from unicorn peak to the echo sumits is fun. There is nothing more that three pitches in there but if you do all the peaks it is something like 16 summits in a day. North peak is good. If I remember correctly third pilar of dana has a 5.9 variation. The domes have many many good routes in your range. Just look in the book for lots of stars. Regular route on Fariview, West crack, South crack, Great White Book, the list could go on and on. It is hard to go wrong up there. The popular routes will be crouded so get an early start. Most important of all bring, bug juice.

[Darren]

Thanks for the suggestions. I guess we'll have to watch the weather/snow pack and decide if we should go there or elsewhere.

 

Thanks,

 

Darren

[Chris_McNamara]

Yeah. there is a lot of snow. nobody is making prediction on when the road is going to open... but my guess is July 4. i have not data to back that up... just a hunch.

 

even if the road is closed, you can still climb Mt Conness (if you drive from the east side). I would recommend climbing the west face (an awesome long 5.6) and descending the north ridge (a less cool but still fun 5.6). It would be a huge day with lots of hiking.. but you said you didnt mind lots of hiking.

[cj001f]

Yeah. there is a lot of snow. nobody is making prediction on when the road is going to open... but my guess is July 4. i have not data to back that up... just a hunch.

Gas Station's claiming July 4th. With the melt going on lately...