cragchick Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 Any info on this route and this season's conditions would be appreciated. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatinoutliquor Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 I haven't had a look at it recently, but I would expect a long approach, and a relativly snow covered ascent up to the red saddle at the base of the summit pinnacle. This portion of the climb is straightforward, mostly featureless snowslopes. The traverse under the pinnacle will probably be in condition, but be wary of rock or icefall from above, especially with warming temps over the course of this week. I would want to be past that part before it really starts cooking in the afternoon sun. On the pinnacle I would expect rotton snow over rock, but otherwise relativly straightforward conditions. I personally prefer a rap off of the pinnacle (don't count on a solid anchor being in place yet), so make sure you have one of those rope thingys. When are you planning on heading over there? I have a feeling lot's is going to change up there (on the pinnacle) over the course of this week. Have you considered any other routes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cragchick Posted May 25, 2005 Author Share Posted May 25, 2005 thanks for the info. not scheduled til mid-june. going with a group and am not the leader so may need to lobby for other routes i'll keep watching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 World's tallest gravel pile. Long hump to get in (by OR standards). I would recommend looking at other mtns if you can't come until June. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 That route should be in good shape mid-June. It is long and involves a lot of elev. gain. There are some beautiful views. Crampons and ice axe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_a Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 NOLSe managed to accidentally dislodge a car size boulder that was being used as a hand hold just below red saddle when we were up there many many years ago. The damn rock cartwheeled down the whole mountain. Â the south side of Jeffy is the nastiest pile of stacked boulders I've ever seen...makes North Sister look relatively decent. Â As long as its covered in snow, I bet it would actually be fun though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatinoutliquor Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 NOLSe managed to accidentally dislodge a car size boulder that was being used as a hand hold  What kind of car? Are we talking something like a honda civic, or more like a suburban? I bet it was something to watch. How long did it take to get to the bottom? Freaky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 VW bug. I will never forget the look on Pete's face... Â And let's not forget the death of one climber that happened in the early 90s when the entire ridge he was on crumbled beneath him and he fell to his death. I think it was either on the summit point or near there. Â Jefferson in anything but snow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 Definitely agree. Except I did climb jeff park glacier in sept. a few years back and it was a blast. Thousands of feet of unroped ice bouldering + the romp up that cool (and very solid) ridge = fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatinoutliquor Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 I had a blast on Jeff Park Glacier last year. Great conditions on the glacier and ridge. Summit was a bit exciting w/ rotten snow. Overall one of my favorite trips though. Just gotta be careful if you are ever even remotly under the mohler tooth (lots of rockfall that almost got my buddy a few years ago). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnmedic Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 Hmm,.. I've been up there a bit myself and allways wanted to give it a shot. Jus looked really loose up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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