Sloan approach

[geordie]

Last summer I got rejected from Sloan because the water crossing was too deep. So with the drought in effect I thought I'd check it out.

You can't drive the mtn loop from the south, but you can get to the trailhead from Darrington. The last few miles are 4x4 required because of rutted snow, but that will improve within weeks. The trek to the river is nice without the brush and the river is low, low, low. (You can boulder hop the slough that we waded in August and the river looks about a foot deep.) Now who's going with me to check on climbing conditions?

g

 

[Drangsholt]

If you go a little later in the spring, why not go in from the Bedal Creek side? No river crossing, almost 1000ft higher start. I went in that way last June and was surprised how easy it was. However, most of the approach was under snow so the brush wasn't really a factor. Somebody else may be able the rate the brush.

[mikeadam]

Bedal Creek brush kind of tastes like chicken... http://mountainwerks.com/cma/delcampo.htm

Mike http://alpinelite.com

[mvs]

Yes, Mike A. and I got skunked by dripping, wet brush. But if it's dry, it's a great approach. I reached the edge of the Sloan Glacier from that approach in late October

and found it really enjoyable.

See this: http://www.mountainwerks.com/cma/sloan.htm

--Michael

[Colin]

I've approached Sloan three times from the Bedal Basin side (all failed attempts), and as Drangsholt said it's not too bad. However, it is definitely better in spring than in summer, when snow covers all the brush and you don't have to follow the very-difficult-to-follow trail.

[mattp]

I'd be interested in climbing Sloan. Do you have any weekends coming up?

This past weekend I tried the N. Face of Big Four Mountain and the snow was waist to neck deep and slushy up to 4,000 feet, because the predicted cold front did not really materialize. I would guess we'd find those same conditions on the approach to Sloan right now, thought the higher part of the mountain might be pretty good. Even if the approach is grueling, I figure an attempt is better than staying home.

- Matt Perkins

[none_dup1]

For the record, Matt was smart enough to avoid the neck-deep snow sections on Big Four. I was not. It would have made an amusing video.

John Sharp

[W]

I did Sloan's west face a long time ago...starting at Bedal Creek in June. The brush on the trail sucks in places but is tame compared to some places I've been. It takes less than 2 hours to reach treeline at which point the terrain is a cruise. The Corkscrew route can be accessed by going over the saddle to the south of the peak to gain the glacier filling the basin below the south face.

Wouldn't recommend the west face, btw. The upper half is low angle and will hold snow that currently no doubt will make the 5th class rock sections very wet. Even in summer when it's dry it's an uninteresting climb (mostly 4th class) on less than average quality rock. Nice views though and uncrowded.