[TR] Mt Rainier- Ingraham Glacier Direct 5/7/2005

[eternalX]

Climb: Mt Rainier-Ingraham Glacier Direct

 

Date of Climb: 5/7/2005

 

Trip Report:

Two friends came up from Phoenix on Friday night and we left Seattle at 6 am on Saturday morning. After chatting with the ranger for a bit we were off to Muir by 9:30. Arrived at 2:30, took a nap, made water and food and went to sleep.

 

We got moving at 4:00 am, a late start because our alarm didn't go off. The wind was about medium strength. At about 11k, we passed a team on their way down. They had turned around because one of their members was feeling ill. The visibility was going in and out and as we climbed higher, the wind got much stronger and it started to snow, At about 12,500, we decided to turn around as well. SUCK. Another group turned around as well, about 500 ft below us.

 

We were back in the parking lot by 12:00 noon.

 

The route was completely wanded but the weather was bad. Watching the dark clouds move in on the way back and never getting a good look at Ranier today, I think we did the right thing.

 

Gear Notes:

3 pickets, 60m rope

 

Approach Notes:

Route completely wanded. Snow all the way from Paradise. Saturday would've been a great ski outing.

[RichTurley]

Hey X,

 

I was up there too. The two man team that planned on heading up Monday. We waited till about 4:00 and things just got worse. Decided to bail so that we could work Monday and use that day when hopefully things would be better. The guys from Colorado stayed hoping for better weather and one more try.

 

Rich

[Tjaden]

Well, it turns out that little ant-trail was a group of Mountaineers doing crevasse training:

 

[Plinko]

Nothin I like more than standing in lines! I spend a lot of my free time just hanging out at the DMV, they've got some great lines there. I'm starting up an Extreme Line Standing Club and we're gonna have organised tours to stand in such famous lines as Disneyland, DC on Rainier, and more! Sign up early, while there's still room on the bus

[fenderfour]

fuckin ze off! We are Boealps, not mountaineers...and we can stand in line with the best of them.

 

It was my duty to find the snow-covered crevasses on Saturday Morning. I've never had so much trouble TRYING to fall in a crevasse. I jumped on 6 different depressions before one finally gave way.

[dynomonkey]

I was up there on 5/12. Conditions were great. Ingraham was in really good shape. Only made it to 12,800. Route when over a vertical section that we were not quite perpared for. Good time anyway.

http://www.whiteswell.com/PhotoJournals/nw_usa/20050512-RainierClimb/images/344294091pbbotc_fs.jpg

[fear]

You couldn't get around the vertical section on either side?

 

Also did you need/use snowshoes for any parts of the trip?

 

Nice pics.

 

-Fear

[thelawgoddess]

hs - look at all those ants!!! thanks for the tr and pic!

[ashw_justin]

It was my duty to find the snow-covered crevasses on Saturday Morning. I've never had so much trouble TRYING to fall in a crevasse. I jumped on 6 different depressions before one finally gave way.

 

That sounds like fun, I'll have to try that sometime! Also illustrates why I feel relatively safe from crevasse falls with skis on my feet.