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Posted

When climbing harder stuff (relative of course), it is nice to know that a fall will be a safe and fun consequence, rather than inherently dangerous. I am wondering what routes people think offer the best margin of fall safety when it comes to moving up the grades. I have never really been one to work routes, but I've also never been one to lead harder than mid 10. I usually aim to onsight well within my ability and as such my onsight and redpoint (like two efforts, or after top roping once, not projecting) grades are the same. Anyhow, I am wondering what routes at local crags (northbend, LW, index, vantage), offer the relatively safest fall potential at moderate grades. Granted uber steep roofs afford friendly falls, but they also tip the grades higher. I have found walls such as nevermind and worldwall offer some good options, however even nevermind is a little blocky at the lower grades. Anyhow, what routes to people recommend for pushing yourself say harder than 9/10a trad and 10 b/c sport?

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Posted

Some crags might only offer one or two routes in the grades of interest. If it is something I am totally comfortable with, I dont mind shitty runouts or bad ledges, however if the probablity of falling is near 100%, it'd be nice to know where people reccomend going to push themselves.

Posted

Bo Derek.

Most routes at Spring Mountain in OR.

 

generally anything on good rock with good pro. preferably not on a slab or above a ledge or above lower angle terrain.

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