TrogdortheBurninator Posted May 6, 2005 Share Posted May 6, 2005 When climbing harder stuff (relative of course), it is nice to know that a fall will be a safe and fun consequence, rather than inherently dangerous. I am wondering what routes people think offer the best margin of fall safety when it comes to moving up the grades. I have never really been one to work routes, but I've also never been one to lead harder than mid 10. I usually aim to onsight well within my ability and as such my onsight and redpoint (like two efforts, or after top roping once, not projecting) grades are the same. Anyhow, I am wondering what routes at local crags (northbend, LW, index, vantage), offer the relatively safest fall potential at moderate grades. Granted uber steep roofs afford friendly falls, but they also tip the grades higher. I have found walls such as nevermind and worldwall offer some good options, however even nevermind is a little blocky at the lower grades. Anyhow, what routes to people recommend for pushing yourself say harder than 9/10a trad and 10 b/c sport? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 6, 2005 Share Posted May 6, 2005 WTF kinda post is this?? LOOK AT THE ROUTE and figure out for yourself if its cool to lob or not and where to do it...DUH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted May 6, 2005 Author Share Posted May 6, 2005 Some crags might only offer one or two routes in the grades of interest. If it is something I am totally comfortable with, I dont mind shitty runouts or bad ledges, however if the probablity of falling is near 100%, it'd be nice to know where people reccomend going to push themselves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 6, 2005 Share Posted May 6, 2005 Pet Wall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpine_Dreamer Posted May 6, 2005 Share Posted May 6, 2005 Rumr's right, but sounds like you're looking for a general area recommendation. Tieton might work for ya - vertical columns w/ rock less chossy than Vantage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted May 7, 2005 Share Posted May 7, 2005 Bo Derek. Most routes at Spring Mountain in OR. Â generally anything on good rock with good pro. preferably not on a slab or above a ledge or above lower angle terrain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted May 7, 2005 Share Posted May 7, 2005 Condorphamine Addiction. You MIGHT, just MIGHT fall a foot or so between bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 7, 2005 Share Posted May 7, 2005 "Whip It" would be an appropriately named route to whip on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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