Chimney Rock, Priest Lake

[Palouser]

What can you tell me about climbing Chimney Rock? Long ago I did a little belayed climbing and thought I'd get into the sport and never did. Hiked up to Chimney Rock recently and instinctively wanted to go to the top. It looks like it might be easy if there was at least one person who knew what they were doing. Tell me what you know. What level of slills would one need if going with a guide?

 

Found myself looking at Terraserver photo at cross section of top. Have I been bit?

[sobo]

What can you tell me about climbing Chimney Rock?

You'd be in for a real treat.

 

Long ago I did a little belayed climbing and thought I'd get into the sport and never did. Hiked up to Chimney Rock recently and instinctively wanted to go to the top. It looks like it might be easy if there was at least one person who knew what they were doing.

It will take at least two people who know what they are doing. And actively applying that knowledge toward the endeavor at hand.

 

Tell me what you know.

Already did. Should be sufficient. A copy of Randall Green's Idaho Rock might set you straight. Or wait for folks like pindude, Dane, MCash, CatManDoo, slothrop, or others to chime in.

 

What level of slills would one need if going with a guide?

Minimum trad skills of 5.10 stiff to be nice and comfortable. You'd prolly get by with strong 5.9 skilz with a ropegun.

 

Found myself looking at Terraserver photo at cross section of top. Have I been bit?

Yes. And apparently hard at that.

[kurthicks]

Or wait for folks like pindude, Dane, MCash, CatManDoo, slothrop, or others to chime in.

 

What about me and NYC007? come on Sobo. Anyways, from what I've heard the road is still snowed in. I can't wait to get up there this summer.

[NYC007]

Well I will guess and say you can probally get atleast a mile from the TH. But in 2-3 wks it will be nice, but if you prefer a snow free approach maybe june. There is a fairly easy route that goes at 5.3 but everyone says it feels harder, which I think if you had a compitent leader you shouldnt have a problem following it if you practiced cleaning gear prior to the climb. Its got some great climbing and is well worth the time to get in there

[sobo]

Or wait for folks like pindude, Dane, MCash, CatManDoo, slothrop, or others to chime in.

 

What about me and NYC007? come on Sobo. Anyways, from what I've heard the road is still snowed in. I can't wait to get up there this summer.

 

I did indeed think about both of you, and even more folks up that way (fleblebleb, Philip L., Marc D., Jim M., etc.), but as you can see, I could have just gone on and on. At some point, I figgerd that some of you "Nor'easters" would find this thread eventually and weigh in on the issue. I wasn't out to exclude anyone specifically.

[MCash]

Matt's (NYC007) advise is right on. You sound like you want to bag the top. You are probably only interested in the easiest route then. The West Face standard route is rated class 5.3, 3 pitches. The grades at Chimney are original oldschool, and will feel very stiff if you are used to the grades at sport crags. The standard route would probably be a 5.6 in Leavenworth, in my opinion.

 

You should learn how to trad climb at your local crag, until you are proficient at 5.7, would be my advice. That shouldn't take very long.