Coleman Glacier

[dizzyme456]

Would anyone know the current ice climbing conditions on the Coleman? Thinking of heading out there this weekend. > )

[thelawgoddess]

not to be "harsh" but that's a pretty vague question ...

[JoshK]

My guess is there will probably be some ice, some snow, and a glacier.

[dizzyme456]

ok. well I guess ill start again. Im new to ice climbing and I have never been to the coleman before. i was just wonderin' what I was getting myself into this time of year. Any info would be great.

[thelawgoddess]

how new? and are you going with someone who's not so new? and what are your goals?

 

and how do you feel about traveling unroped on glaciers and standing around a bunch of seracs that could fall down in a heartbeat?

[rbw1966]

Blind leading the blind?

[dizzyme456]

ive been climbing rock for 19 years now, and I do have glacier travel experience so I do know about serac collapse. Me and and a friend of mine (who has been there quite a few times)were just wondering if anyone has been there in the past few weeks or so just to get some current info. I do realize that ice is a totally different realm than rock. But I also heard that the Coleman was a good place to learn. Is there any other places that are any better that I should be looking at? Im relatively new to the area. Thanx

[wdietsch]

quote:

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Originally posted by rbw1966:

Blind leading the blind?

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[Highlander]

Check telemetry data for the last week to see the anount of snow that could be around. Snow level is probably around 5,500-6,000ft. Ice is there, but may be covered with snow.

[thelawgoddess]

yeah; that's me. except i'm not totally blind. (the incident with the leashless axes only took out one of my eyes last weekend.)

 

if they were a couple of total newbies i was just gonna recommend the big four ice caves is all. now that i have an answer, i'd say go for it on the coleman. fun stuff out there - hard and easy. go, go, go!

[Lambone]

Hey dizzy, I would sugest checking the recent snow acumulations around that area at that altitude. The colman is a great place to learn, and generaly pretty safe, but it could be dangerous and/or difficult to access if alot of snow has fallen. New snow, or windblown pockets of snow could conceal gaps or crevases among the seracs. I'd say this along with avy danger on the approach are the two biggest concerns. Serac's can colapse, but not anymore likely than in the summertime.

 

If there is more than couple of feet of snow you may want to think twice. Oh yeah, call the Glacier ranger station to see if the trailhead is accessable before you drive all the way up there.

 

And don't feel bad, sprayer lawgoddess is just as new to ice climbing as you are.

 

Go check it out and let us know! Hope that helps...

[rbw1966]

quote:

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Originally posted by thelawgoddess:

now that i have an answer, i'd say go for it on the coleman. fun stuff out there - hard and easy. go, go, go!

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Umm. . .Iain? You wanna take care of this?

[dizzyme456]

Thanks for the info guys, Ill let u know

[thelawgoddess]

quote:

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Originally posted by Lambone:

And don't feel bad, sprayer lawgoddess is just as new to ice climbing as you are.

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i wasn't trying to make anyone feel bad.

[Lambone]

we know, sometimes things just tend to seem condecending on the inernet. Happens to the best o em!

[dizzyme456]

No offense taken. Sarcasm and witty responses should do nothing but open someones eyes a little more...

[fishstick]

As of last Sunday the 17th:

 

10 inches of firm snow at glacier. Less than 1cm at parking lot and raining. Ice had become surface brittle, but still VERY good for this time of year. Given rain levels, it's probably still OK...but it might require somewhat of a battle to get in.

 

The recent storms put a bit of surface snow at 4000 feet near Vancouver. Amazingly warm temps at the moment. The real question is how low was the snow line for the majority of the storm? Some snow is going to melt, but if there's a meter or two?

 

Still, I think it'll be OK.

 

GB