Matt_Anderson Posted April 9, 2005 Share Posted April 9, 2005 So I'm pretty sure I've aggravated my pully ligament in my right hand middle finger - Open hand is painless, crimps hurt, pain is localized to the second joint from the end and the belly of the finger, closer to the hand (proximal to the joint). I don't think it is horribly torn, but it sure is aggravated and strained, possibly a bit worse. I noticed it about a month ago and got worse towards the end of last week, when I wasn't resting enough, got sick and did 20 laps on rainy day in a morning/afternoon. (I originally thought is was just a little bit of tendonitis - there never was a trauma that I associated with the onset). Currently, I'm not able to crimp hard with right hand. MY QUESTION IS: Has anyone healed a strained/torn pully ligament like this while continuing to climb seriously? I know the general recommendation for most tendon/ligament injuries is six weeks off, combine with other modalities (light exercise of it + icing). I don't want to do that unless it becomes unbearable, in large part because this is the first summer in a long time where I'm going to be able to commit to working on my goals (long, hard (for me) free routes) and I really don't want to take the time off. On the other hand, if I'm going to have to take the time off regardless, I would consider biting the bullet now instead of next winter (or in the middle of the summer if it gets really bad). Finally, any resources for the latest thoughts on taping to support this injury? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted April 9, 2005 Share Posted April 9, 2005 I would take the time off now. I've had, from your description, the same injury in 3 fingers at different times. The last one occured late winter before a summer that I had lots of time off and big plans. I tried to just climb easy stuff on it in a "working" rehab/ let it heal. It finally got back to "normal" after 18months (of which the last 4 involved no climbing). I thought "well, I won't climb anything crimpy" or "nothing at my limit". Still, even slabs and easy routes involve crimpy, unavoidable holds from time to time. Look at it this way: If you don't take the rest and let it heal properly, it will get aggravated everytime you climb anything hard. You may be able to climb near your current limit on it, but it's unlikley that you will be able to climb hard enough, often enough, to progress because the "training stimulus" that gets you stronger will probably excaerbate the injury. You would end up climbing harder toward the end of the season by taking the time off now rather than nursing what will become a lingering injury. It's tough to take time off. But, you can always turn your focus for those couple of months to cardio, yoga, core muscles, opposing muscles groups, etc. These might even pay off more than the climbing you will miss if you don't typically address those aspects of training. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted April 9, 2005 Share Posted April 9, 2005 MY QUESTION IS: Has anyone healed a strained/torn pully ligament like this while continuing to climb seriously? No, but I can name at least 6 six friends off the top of my head who have missed out on a season because they didn't want to take the time to heal. If there was a shortcut, I'm sure someone would've found it by now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted April 10, 2005 Share Posted April 10, 2005 - Open hand is painless, crimps hurt, pain is localized to the second joint from the end and the belly of the finger, closer to the hand (proximal to the joint). sounds like typical tendon pulley injury. there are several articles in climbing and R&I, as well as discussions on this bb about the subject. remember- it might take up to 6 mo to completly get over this one. keep climbing with this and you'll see what pain really is. take time off and heal it properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted April 10, 2005 Share Posted April 10, 2005 Take up aid climbing, that's what I did, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted April 11, 2005 Author Share Posted April 11, 2005 Just bringing this to the top . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted April 11, 2005 Author Share Posted April 11, 2005 (edited) FYI - Here is the best article I have found on the injuries - It's done by a german doctor who appears to work for a hospital that is the place to go for climbing injuries in Germany. Of course, that place doesn't exist in the states . . . http://www.wemjournal.org/wmsonline/?req...014-02-0094-f01 edit: It also contains a bibliography of just about all other related articles on the subject. Edited April 11, 2005 by Matt_Anderson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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