powderhound Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 I am looking for any information on a pillar called the Turkey Monster, I have Dodges 1875 guide discription, but this only has Aid info and I am wondeirng if this has been done free yet. I am also looking for info on the route Barad-Dur on wolf rock. thanks byran you can contact me at bryan_schmitz@yahoo.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 do a search on this site.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retired Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 Turkey goes free 11a, but the upper menagerie is closed for falcons this time of year. Barad dur goes free at 11b...some very tall folks say 11a and Wolf rock is not closed. both are serious routes. it may seem like dodges guide is ancient but it was published in 1975 not 1875. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ireneo_Funes Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 So exactly what parts of the Menagerie are closed for raptor nesting? Are Rooster Rock and the formations around it open all year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ireneo_Funes Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 By the way, there's a cool picture of Barad-Dur HERE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retired Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 Ah, a very cool shot of my good buddy Randy leading the 5th pitch 10d. The lower crags of the menagerie ie: Rooster, Hen, Chicken are open to anyone willing to hike 1,800 vertical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retired Posted February 27, 2005 Share Posted February 27, 2005 Oh a little more beta might be useful, kind of in a hurry eariler. The descriptions in Dodge will get you up the climbs...worked for me anyway. Carry a fairly comprehensive rack to a 3 camalot for Barad-dur and #4 for turkey. These are both old routes with old bolts. Barad-dur has had some re and retro bolting done but on Turkey very little has been replaced. There is some loose rock on barad dur and nothing but loose rock on turkey, wear a helmet and test pull your ropes if you rap the monster it has a long history of stuck ropes. A bolt kit to replace belay bolts would be a very good idea on Turkey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted February 27, 2005 Share Posted February 27, 2005 any other beta for the turkey as an aid climb? i would like to climb it and replace the bolts and what not... pins hooks... whats in the rack, what are the pitches like. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retired Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 cornvalley climber...Turkey monster beta, 1st pitch 10a mostly bolt protected, if you call those weird pieces of metal bolts. 2nd pitch 10c crack, rotten roof, crack. 3rd pitch 11a bolt ladder featuring aluminum foil hangers. 4th pitch easy scrambling up to the head. the viscious rap begins at the end of the 3rd pitch In my early years I aided the turkey and it is actually easier to free climb the monster...pitch 2 anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildbillc Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 Hey retired and Corvallisclimb, noticed corvallis is interested in replacing bolts... beings the menagerie is a ground up bolting ethic and I would gues the route does not have alot of bolts on it anyway, whats the call on replacement of bolts? Certainly no additional bolts should be added. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retired Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 wildbill, There are a ton of bolts on Turkey and as long as Corvallis wants to rebolt more power to him...just no power drills or new holes. remove the old mank and put in a new fatty...good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted March 9, 2005 Share Posted March 9, 2005 mainly my goal would be to make sure the anchors are solid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skymeat Posted April 8, 2005 Share Posted April 8, 2005 I beleive that Wolf Rock IS closed at the moment (Jan1 to Aug31)for raptor nesting. Last time I was there I saw a golden eagle right close to us, looked like he was nesting somewhere high on BaradDur. You might want to call the forest service to make sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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