Tod Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier The route is in great shape. Here are some details: Approach: Icicle Creek Road is plowed all the way to the Eightmile/Colchuck road. You can drive about a mile up the Eightmile/Colchuck road on semi hard-pack snow if you have 4-wheel-drive (the gate is open and there are plenty of people that have driven part way up). If conditions change though, you could be dealing with a dangerous or impossible drive with a steep drop-off. Basically from Icicle Creek all the way to the base of Stuart there is 2-4 inches of snow in the trees, and 1-2 feet in the open. There is a great snowshoe trail all the way to the North Ridge and the traveling is quick and straightforward. Climb: The left side of the Ice Cliff Glacier has a great ramp that is mostly snow up until a few short steps of ice. The last step is about 15'-20' of 50 degree ice. There are a few crevasses hidden and visible once you get on the ice cliff. The bergschrund is filled in and virtually non-existant; no problem whatsoever. The coulior has a short 15'-20' step of styrofoam ice that sucks the tools right in. An interesting note: my last tool placement broke the seal on some running water. Once I pulled it out water was running down the ice step. It was colder than 15 degrees so I'm sure it froze right away and made for some more ice to play on. The coulior has some great steps up it now, otherwise your wallowing in soft powder with occasional hardpack underneath for your crampons. Ther is no cornice to negotiate. After topping out from the coulior you have another 800' or so of soft snow on top of hardpack. Most likely you'll need you crampons for the last 100' to the summit and back. Descent: The Sherpa Glacier Coulior and Glacier are quick and a very easy descent. Lot's of powder to wallow in. Gear: ice Tools 8.5mm rope (only used while crossing the glacier because of crevasse danger) ice screws (didn't use) rock pro (didn't use) Notes: There are tracks from a party on Saturday trying to go up the right side of the Ice Cliff Glacier. The tracks head up 40-50 meters of verglass slab. Apparently someone in the party of three took a 40 meter tumble and they didn't get any farther. Also, Colin and Mark are up there right now trying to do the full North Ridge. With conditions and weather, I am sure they'll finish it off. Let the stampede begin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp55 Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Nice!! How long did it take ya?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyselinck Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Screw you. I'm jealous. You couldn't have done it if it were not for my pictures though, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tod Posted February 22, 2005 Author Share Posted February 22, 2005 We were originally intending to do Stuart Glacier Coulior, but from what we saw and we're hearing there wouldn't be enough ice and snow for that route. Your post was a good motivator, but I looked at your post yesterday and we only followed the same route for about 100'. We ended up taking a more left line that connected with your line at the final ice step. Your tool placement points were well used there . Your post should have helped the boys show took a fall though. They made there own line to the right under the icefall on the verglass. The hazards were plenty there, though the icefall is making no signs of moving right now. The verglass doesn't look fun either... We went in on Saturday with overnight gear, 5 hours from car to moraine. 6 hours to the summit. 2 hours down to camp. 3 hours from camp back to the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyselinck Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 So you jacked my biner and slings? Good work. I wish I could have been up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tod Posted February 22, 2005 Author Share Posted February 22, 2005 We left your biner and sling. I should have cleaned it, but my mentality of leaving "fixed" gear took over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Nice work!! How you think Sherpa would be for ski down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tod Posted February 22, 2005 Author Share Posted February 22, 2005 The Sherpa Glacier and Coulior would be great for for skiiing down. We were wishing we had our boards as we were wallowing down it in the powder. It's just a matter of lugging your skis up on your pack or dealing with sh*tty skinning on the way up. I wouldn't want to skin up the trail or climbers track with how little snow there is.... Really all of Stuart is ripe for some great descents with the current conditions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Cool. Thanks for the beta. Right now anything worth skiing will involve hiking with skis on your back (or your board if you swing that way). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier ....Also, Colin and Mark are up there right now trying to do the full North Ridge. With conditions and weather, I am sure they'll finish it off. So...? I'm on pins & needles here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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