skyclimb Posted February 13, 2005 Posted February 13, 2005 Climb: Hood-Flying Buttress Date of Climb: 2/11/2005 Trip Report: I slept in the parking lot of Timberline Thursday night, hoping for good weather and conditions to do the Devils Kitchen Headwall-1c. The winds were pretty strong, and buffetted me to sleep nicely in the back of the truck. I awoke at 4a.m. to heavy winds, and a distant memory of being raped on mt. shasta the week prior. So I slept till 8a.m. when the winds began to die, and then began skinning up the mountain to do any route that would have a sleep induced slacker like me. To my amazement, the devils kitchen looked fairly solid at about 10a.m., but I wasn't willing to risk 1c, which had been exposed to the sun for those few critical hours. So I flung myself at the Flying Buttress-1E, and encountered GREAT climbing. The start was the crux, with steep water ice that was soft enough to take my picks a few inches deep. That gave way to more steep ice covered in powder snow, and then a final rime headwall to top out on wy-east. For you yocum seekers, the rime was bonded stronger than I have ever seen it, making hooking a very solid proposition. Once I topped out, the realization set in that Avy danger was High, and continuing onto the summit was out of the question. So I decended wy-east sticking to rock ribs for safety. Traversing back to the south-side I encountered quite a few crevasses thinly bridged, and very open. It was a great route, and I am glad I went all the way up there for just 500 feet of fun ice. Oh, and 2,500 feet of sweet skiing down to the truck on a blue-bird day. Gear Notes: 1 tool, poons, compass, nutter bars, not much else Approach Notes: skiing is such a sweet sweet thing. Quote
Chad_A Posted February 13, 2005 Posted February 13, 2005 Very nice. Sounds like the snow up on the east side is still pretty unconsolidated. Probably much more so, now. I'll have to go up through that area and do some more exploring. Nice pics, by the way! Quote
sweatinoutliquor Posted February 14, 2005 Posted February 14, 2005 Nice work up there dude... I wish I had seen you working 1e... After bailing on Reid I thought briefly about trying one of the DK HW routes, but decided against cause I wasn't exactly sure what routes went where, etc. You had good ski conditions? Coming down from Ill saddle I kept breaking through the surface crust. Anyway, great TR and photos. Quote
layton Posted February 14, 2005 Posted February 14, 2005 sweatinoutliquor is the best name i have seen on this site so far!!! Quote
Chriznitch Posted February 17, 2005 Posted February 17, 2005 I can verify that it is not just a clever name Quote
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