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[TR] North Cascades Hwy Roadside- John Pierce Falls 1/16/2005


layton

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Climb: North Cascades Hwy Roadside-John Pierce Falls

 

Date of Climb: 1/16/2005

 

Trip Report:

Marcus Donaldson and I made the pilgramage up to HWY 20 to go lookin fer ice. Unfortunately we only had one day, so we had to miss the good times in Hope.

It was warm and raing and not much climbable ice until past Colonial Pk which we couldn't see so don't ask if it's in.

 

John Pierce falls goes at one short pitch of WI2 and one 61 meter pitch of WI4. It was a vertical slurpee in the light rain and fog and both of us got eye fulls of water after some swings. screws were mainly useless.

 

Good times rapping off (never saw any tat on the trees?) as the route 1st let loose a major slide. not the gently hiss of a colorado powerder dump, but a rumble and a sizeable slide roarer right over our packs.

 

As we grabbed the packs after rapping and high-tailed it to the car a point slide released a fireworks display of a slide down the climb again.

Then the snowplow cleared the road above us on the bridge we were under once again dumping a massive amount of snow onto the drainage.

Luckily our car wasn't burried and we weren't hit.

 

the overall quality was ok, but i wouldn't bother with it unless it's the only thing you can think of doing. i don't think it'll last much longer.

 

Gear Notes:

8 screws and slings

avy snorkel

 

Approach Notes:

walk several feet to the climb

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