[TR] Cascade Peak- South Side via C-J Col 12/22/2004

[DPS]

Climb: Cascade Peak-South Side via C-J Col

 

Date of Climb: 12/22/2004

 

Trip Report:

mtnfreak and I attempted Cascade Peak on Wednesday via the C-J Couloir and south chimeny. We believed this would have been the first winter ascent of the peak.

 

The C-J couloir had deep snow and avalance debris in it. We mostly post holed our way up, sometimes to our waist. Once above the Sill Glacier at 6,000 ft we realized we were moving too slowly to summit and descend before dark. The snow above this point was quite deep,unconsolidated, and had not yet slid. (On a 30 degree slope no less, yikes!) Due to our slow progress in the deep snow and the avalanche hazard, we descended.

 

The folks coming up today should have nice steps up to this point. Good luck to them. Its a cool looking climb, regardless of it being winter or not.

 

We noted some cool multi-pitch water falls starting to form in the area. If we get a cold snap this would be a great, low effort area for ice climbing.

 

Gear Notes:

Crampons, ice axe. Brought a rope and rack, did not use it. Shoulda had less sense, more gumption.

 

Approach Notes:

Drive to Eldo Creek was cake, a little snow on the ground

[Billygoat]

 

I was just wondering what conditions were like up there.

[JoshK]

 

 

There were actually more people trying this!?

[DPS]

I mistakenly thought someone mentioned their friends were going to try it. I was wrong.

[AllYouCanEat]

So your's were the boot tracks that covered my nice skin track, eh? You are lucky you were not up there on friday also. Think rain and 100ft visibility. It makes getting down interesting.

 

The conditions were good, more snow than we thought, still not as much as there could be. Everytime I go up there I am humbled.