[TR] Beacon Rock- Free For All 12/21/2004

[Blake]

Climb: Beacon Rock-Free For All

 

Date of Climb: 12/21/2004

 

Trip Report:

A friend and I planned on doing the SE corner at Beacon, but constant drizzle and fog ruled out that option. We ran into local veteran Jim Updike, but even he wasn't climbing in this weather. We did most of Free For All (Left side start is fantastic). However, the Rock was wet and I didn't feel really confident on lead, and called it quits part way up. We left a gray sling and 'biner slung atop a pillar about 50-60' up and just right of the route, free booty for someone.

Also, I recoverd a biner that had no kN or CE ratings on it, and said "chamonix". Anyone know about the quality of these carabiners?

 

Gear Notes:

chemical hand warmers - most vital gear we had.

[texplorer]

Nice job getting out. That is a great 5.8 testpiece pitch (when dry).

[Blake]

A few days later after doing Young Warriors with JosephH, we did FFA (whole thing this time) and I was able to get my sling and 'biner back!. This was a great long crack climb, but too long to make a single rap, so plan accordingly.

[JosephH]

Yes, Blake did a first rate job on the bail, and fortunately had a long sling which he quite ingeniously rigged on the righthand pillar. This has a smaller square block sticking out the right side of its top and he (I believe) cloved that block and then draped the body of the sling on either side of the pillar top so the end draped off the left side above the route.

 

Smart thinking...

 

P.S. I have to admit, I think of it as a long layback rather than a crack.

[Ireneo_Funes]

When does Beacon close for the raptor nesting?

[billcoe]

When does Beacon close for the raptor nesting?

 

 

Coming up, better go get your pump on Dan:

 

Feb. 1 - July 15.

 

Joesph, Kellie Rice and I are starting in on looking at helping monitoring Peregrines. It's in prelim right now, but I'll post when it gets a little further. Hey Joseph lives there: right Blake?