cluck Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 Anybody climb Oregon High 1F? If the route is super straight forward, cool. If there is a particular, crux/route finding challenge, I'd be interested in a pic or advise. Flame if you want, but could do without the requisite, "go up, don't fall" variety advise. Cluck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 I have climbed down that before trying to get off Wy'east, it is not bad when it is fully rimed. You still have to go up the chimney so hopefully that is in condition. It is a bit annoying to walk through devil's kitchen, as it rusts out all your crampons, axes, etc. It has corroded the metal contacts on radios as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin_Matlock Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 Don't have my book handy... which one is that? One of the lines coming off of S.Cliff it sounds. A little description would be handy. Oh yeah, "go up, don't fall". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 I believe that variation is on the wall just right of the Devil's Kitchen Headwall variations. It connects up to the Wy'East route just below the crux couloir to the summit ridge. Here is a photo I took 2 years ago. I'm not exactly sure where the line is, but it probably doesn't matter. Looks like multiple variation starting from the lower right angling up and to the left. Here is a blowup of the upper section from last year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cluck Posted December 17, 2004 Author Share Posted December 17, 2004 Thanks.... Ian... when you say "rusts out crampons/axes", what kind of time frame are you talking about? Over the long term if you get off the route and don't go home and scrub 'em or are you indicating damage can be done just in the time it takes to climb and get back home???!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 I don't think it's really damaging, but within a few hours your axe picks and crampons will have rust all over them. It's easy to get rid of, but yeah within a few hours. It's the same stuff that shows up on axes in general, just a lot more of it. A little wd-40 and scotch pad gets rid of it. I was just surprised by it, but it may have been because I was lying on a fumarole for awhile waiting for my partner to downclimb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ireneo_Funes Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 Cluck -- was that your party trying this route on Saturday? We saw a group of 4 going up that way yesterday but I think they turned around, since we didn't see them on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cluck Posted December 19, 2004 Author Share Posted December 19, 2004 Yup - that was us. The goal was to gain the ridge and then finish via the upper part of the Wy'east route. We ended up turning around about 50 feet shy of the ridge. The ice was totally rotten and we were moving way too slow trying to pick our way through the maze of rime ice cliffs & gullies. Looks like this would be a fun route in good conditions. Unfortunately, we found rotten ice that wasn't bonded to the warm choss underneath. The gullies between the rime cliffs didn't have enough snow in them yet and it made travel difficult and protection impossible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cluck Posted December 19, 2004 Author Share Posted December 19, 2004 Here's a little eye candy... Looking accross Devil's Kitchen at our intended route: Higher up and getting lost in the rime ice maze: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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