Another Conditions Question

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Although last weekend was a wash, I will check again this weekend to see what the experts expect conditions to be this weekend. It looks like the freezing level is supposed to drop to between surface and 2000 ft for sunday. With all this rain today, will that be enough freeze to make for solid alpine snow conditions on something like chair or the tooth? How about something further north on north cascades or 542? Thanks again in advance for any insight or suggestions.

[John Frieh]

Which route on the tooth?

 

HWY 20 might be still closed. What are you looking for (xx degree snow, WI x, 5.x rock, etc?)?

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Was thinking NE slab on tooth or NE Buttress on Chair. Fairly easy ratings wise ie 70 degree snow, WI 2-3, 5.6-7

[eric8]

i would be very surpised if the ne slab on the tooth is "in"

 

chair is a little less conditions dependent but it wouldn't as "easy" as is in say feb when you hike up it

[Alasdair]

I would suspect that any trip into the snoqualme back country this weekend is a poor idea. Lots of new snow followed by lots of rain. Go for it, but I think this would be a good weekend to drink beer.

[John Frieh]

Yup: conditions, if any, will be thin to none. Yes you can climb both routes minus snow but it is not recommended. I would say take a rock rack and if the NE slab isn't in do the standard route or even better the east face (recommended).

 

If you have your heart set on snow/mixed business and don't mind a drive (at least for people in WA) the standard route on Thielsen can be fun any time of year. Other options include some of the peaks in MRNP (Lane, etc) though be super careful about avy... might not be worth the risk.

 

And in my opinion any weekend in the mtns, even if its just scoping out a route or an approach, beats sitting on the couch (or internet) spraying.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

NWAC calls for a substantial decrease in Avi danger saturday and sunday with low danger below 5-6K and moderate above 5-6K. I think the real question is whether it will be cold enough to set the snow well. Which MRNP peaks offer good beginner 70 degreeish snow or ice climbing?

[Alex]

I think Alasdair nailed it on the head. This is a good weekend to win points with your wife/gf by staying home

[John Frieh]

Unless of course your gf/wife climbed... then scoring points meant taking her to smith

[iain]

Smith was in fine shape this weekend. I, however, was not in fine shape.

[John Frieh]

So was vantage! w00t!

[Alasdair]

So was vantage! w00t!

 

Has Vantage ever been in good shape? Its a fucking choss pile.

[John Frieh]

So was vantage! w00t!

 

Has Vantage ever been in good shape? Its a fucking choss pile.

 

Maybe for you bolt clipping pillow bitters. If you don’t like the choss stay in the gym.

 

PS: Stay out of the alpine or take your bottle.

[Alasdair]

So was vantage! w00t!

 

Has Vantage ever been in good shape? Its a fucking choss pile.

 

 

Maybe for you bolt clipping pillow bitters. If you don’t like the choss stay in the gym.

 

PS: Stay out of the alpine or take your bottle.

 

You know me so well. Every chance I get I am out clipping bolts. I am such a bolt clipper. That attempt at an insult may have worked if a) I liked clipping bolts and b) If vantage cracks were worth a shit. Any where that you have to clean choss out of a crack prior to putting in gear is a shit hole that should be avoided.