Looking for route suggestions

[buachille]

Hi all, I'm looking for some suggestions on a day's worth of climbing. I'm new to the area and have seen some great reports here! I'm looking for somewhere to go with some, dare I say it, tope rope, setups on hard ice. I'm a New England climber coming back to the sport in the PNW and need some refreshing work before I'm comphy leading ice again. Any suggestions in the Cascades? I've got the brown and maroon beckey books as well as the WA ice guide and nothing really jumped out at me. Any ideas?

[fenderfour]

Seracs on the Coleman Glacier on Mt. Baker, Nisqually Icefall on Mt. Rainier.

 

I've never been on the Nisqually, ut I've been on the Coleman a number of times. It's a hoot. There's a great campsite on a ridge just above the glacier.

 

Nothing else is in right now.

[Alex]

Hi all, I'm looking for some suggestions on a day's worth of climbing. I'm new to the area and have seen some great reports here! I'm looking for somewhere to go with some, dare I say it, tope rope, setups on hard ice. I'm a New England climber coming back to the sport in the PNW and need some refreshing work before I'm comphy leading ice again. Any suggestions in the Cascades? I've got the brown and maroon beckey books as well as the WA ice guide and nothing really jumped out at me. Any ideas?

 

The Cable at Banks Lake, when its formed.

 

Other than that, most of the West Coast is lead-centric, very little TR-able ice at any grade. You need to go to Banff to warm up so you can climb ice around here

 

[David_Parker]

Unfortunately fellow New Englander, this aint New England where you can go out to the cliffs and ice climb on a reliable schedule. The best tool for ice climbing around here is a decent car and gas! However if you liked winter alpine climbing in the White Mountains, prepare to have even more fun around here. Take a drive over the North Cascades Hwy before it closes and then pray for some cold weather so we get ice in either eastern WA or Lillooet, Canada.

[Don_Serl]

Hi all, I'm looking for some suggestions on a day's worth of climbing. I'm new to the area and have seen some great reports here! I'm looking for somewhere to go with some, dare I say it, tope rope, setups on hard ice. I'm a New England climber coming back to the sport in the PNW and need some refreshing work before I'm comphy leading ice again. Any suggestions in the Cascades? I've got the brown and maroon beckey books as well as the WA ice guide and nothing really jumped out at me. Any ideas?

 

Marble Canyon, between Lillooet and Cache Creek in southwest interior BC, is the ticket.

 

there is info available on bivouac.com at:

http://www.bivouac.com/PhotoPg.asp?PhotoId=4761

(u need to be a member, but it's a great info source. anybody serious about climbing in BC ought to get great value for the $20)

 

also see: http://www.aranet.ca/icybc/

not complete, but worthwhile coverage.

 

or, wait 6 weeks till the 2nd edition of West Coast Ice hits the shelves - should go to the printer TODAY!

 

cheers,

[JayB]

Don:

 

Can you pre-order the guide through the publisher?

[buachille]

I think I've got those bases covered, a subaru forester and a job...should do it. I'll have to take that drive soon! Kind of sounds like the Kancamangus (NH112) but better.

[ken4ord]

Well dude, I was NH climber, and like others have said you are not going to find the same accessible ice that you find in New England. There is no place that I have been too that even begins to rival Frankenstein for ice cragging. And the better areas like Marble Canyon are sort of like heading to Texaco. The season out here start a lot later unless you make the drive to Hylite or the Rockies (btw, the rockies are awesome right now, just got back from a 10 day trip there). Just pray for cold, last winter was suppose to be a good year here, I got out 7 times maybe, not much compared to the 20-30 times a New England season that I was used to. Good luck.

 

Man I miss the Kangamangus highway, my favorite on that road was Way in the Wilderness, what an awesome climb.