colt45 Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 A friend and I tried King of the ruins at Vantage recently. We both thought it felt sort of stout fot 5.12a (he sent it and I didn't). We then looked at a photo in the guidebook, which shows a sequence using an apparently good hold at the lip of the roof, about 2' up and right of the bolt. Well, as far as we could tell, no such hold exists...the only good hold we located over the lip is the one being heel-hooked in the photo. Anyone know if a hold has broken off from the route?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lionel_Hutz Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 Anyone know if a hold has broken off from the route?? Dude, you're seriously asking if a hold fell off a route at vantage??? Shit, whole fucking routes fall off at vantage... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 So you found the crux to be at the roof? My memory tells me this was relatively easy, with the pump making the top part harder. Don't know if a hold is missing. The lip had a decent sized handhold when I did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 Its been at least 5 years since I climbed this route and the hold on the lip was lookin shaky then. Seemed like there were some lesser alternatives within reach however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 Yo, just purchase the hold you want, and bolt it on in the same spot. Viola! Or buy several holds. Then you could set up the route at different grades depending on your mood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 Hey Colt aren't you supposed to be telling us how you did the route in 3 hrs 46.5 minutes using your patented simulclimbing system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt45 Posted November 1, 2004 Author Share Posted November 1, 2004 Hey Colt aren't you supposed to be telling us how you did the route in 3 hrs 46.5 minutes using your patented simulclimbing system Unfortunately all efforts at a speed attempt were thwarted by the fact that I couldn't pull the moves! However, next time I will be sure to bring my gri-gri and tibloc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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