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Posted

Can't verify the location, but I also heard this weekend about this crag. The source was exuberant about the quality of climbing but didn't offer access details. Both Little Si and Exit 38 have separate new guides coming soon and the developers are trying not to leak much info until all access issues are squared away and also don't want to diminish sales with too much pre-information.

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Posted

quote:

Originally posted by matt warfield:

Both Little Si and Exit 38 have separate new guides coming soon and the developers are trying not to leak much info until all access issues are squared away and also don't want to diminish sales with too much pre-information.

Sounds like the recording industry BS to me. Leak info then refuse to give it up. EG: that "leak" about Freeway Gunshow route now this. Will spilling any info affect how many buy the book - doubtful. The spinmiesters spin. If two guides isn't a crass way to get abuse climbers I don't know what is!

Posted

quote:

Leak info then refuse to give it up. EG: that "leak" about Freeway Gunshow route now this.

I agree. They want you to know they're in the know but not tell you what they know! But there are guidebook wars and turf battles and ratings battles and other stuff happening too. Exit 38 guide is supposed to pretty fat with the new development. Probably out in the Spring.

Posted

turf wars on public land?? sounds like maybe we should get the state parks involved to discuss the ownership issues, i am sure they would love too......

 

[Roll Eyes]

Posted

There are 2 areas I've found that aren't in the guide book:

 

#1 As you go around the back of the Peanochle (or however it's spelled) and enter the forrest there is a steep trail going up the hill. There are some cool spire like rocks up there that seemed to be 5.9 to 5.11 and well bolted.

 

#2 Instead of heading up the trail, continue past a few bolted lines and under the overhanging wall

and just keep going. There's a poorly marked route with surveyors tape past a whole bunch of moss covered rock and fallen trees. Eventually you come out with an awesome view across the valley and down onto the highway with some of the steepest and most solid rock I've seen at 38. There was even a thin crack that wasn't even bolted! The bolted line we climbed was stiff 5.11 and it looked like the rest were the same or harder.

 

Does anyone know anything about these areas?

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