Gary_Yngve Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 Climb: Kyes Peak-Pride Glacier Date of Climb: 9/25/2004 Trip Report: The glacier was quite broken up. There were mandatory rock sections, sketchy snow bridges, circuitous routefinding, and other stuff to spice things up. At the bottom, there was just a little bit of snow on ice, where you could pretty much avoid it. At the very top, there was just enough snow to kickstep without your foot shearing/slipping. But in the middle, the amount of snow on ice was pretty darn annoying and required constant mental focus. Gear Notes: Screws were nice once you shoveled off 4"-8" of snow off the ice. MSR pickets with hacksaw-sharpened tips were great... except for the person who had to clean them. Placed a picket as rock pro once... Approach Notes: Small ponds at Pt. 5771 bivy and at bivy on yellow shoulder above the glacier. Deproach: On the S Ridge, we tried contouring west around the 5800 knob instead of going over it... annoying bands of brushy trees, and in my opinion, not worth it. Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted September 28, 2004 Author Posted September 28, 2004 We had a beautiful marine layer set in Sat night / Sun morn: Skies were clear as the sun set and the reds waned from Glacier Peak. Over the course of the night, the valleys started filling up, and I anxiously awaited sunrise. The sun finally crested over the mountains on the horizon. And not too long after, the clouds lit up. Views all around were grand, including toward Rainier and toward Sloan. Quote
Alpinfox Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 That's reeeeeel purty Gary. Reeeel purty. You get up too early. Quote
mvs Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 looks awesome! I want to climb that route... Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted September 28, 2004 Author Posted September 28, 2004 Thanks to Ken, Mary, Tiva, and Anne for being great partners on this trip. Ken wins the award for most expressive with his jaw-dropping, disconcerting "Oh ... my ... God" when he saw the impassable-looking ice jumble in front of him to his I-just-won-the-lottery "Woohoo!" when our bivy site came into view. Quote
Alex Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 great pic! http://www.cs.washington.edu/homes/gyngve/Pride/zsloan.JPG Quote
johndavidjr Posted September 29, 2004 Posted September 29, 2004 Last shot especially nice -- is that Sloan, etc? Quote
Alpine_Tom Posted September 30, 2004 Posted September 30, 2004 Very cool morning photos. I've been reading a couple of books about Monte Cristo, "The Coffee Chased Us Up" and "A Broad Ledge of Gold" and so it's nice to read about an outing over there. Quote
catbirdseat Posted October 4, 2004 Posted October 4, 2004 I assume you found those book in the public library? I've read the first and really enjoyed it. I would like to read the second. Quote
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