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[TR] Kyes Peak- Pride Glacier 9/25/2004


Gary_Yngve

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Climb: Kyes Peak-Pride Glacier

 

Date of Climb: 9/25/2004

 

Trip Report:

 

The glacier was quite broken up. There were mandatory rock sections, sketchy snow bridges, circuitous routefinding, and other stuff to spice things up.

 

At the bottom, there was just a little bit of snow on ice, where you could pretty much avoid it. At the very top, there was just enough snow to kickstep without your foot shearing/slipping. But in the middle, the amount of snow on ice was pretty darn annoying and required constant mental focus.

 

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Gear Notes:

Screws were nice once you shoveled off 4"-8" of snow off the ice.

 

MSR pickets with hacksaw-sharpened tips were great... except for the person who had to clean them.

 

Placed a picket as rock pro once...

 

Approach Notes:

Small ponds at Pt. 5771 bivy and at bivy on yellow shoulder above the glacier.

 

Deproach: On the S Ridge, we tried contouring west around the 5800 knob instead of going over it... annoying bands of brushy trees, and in my opinion, not worth it.

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We had a beautiful marine layer set in Sat night / Sun morn:

 

Skies were clear as the sun set and the reds waned from Glacier Peak.

 

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Over the course of the night, the valleys started filling up, and I anxiously awaited sunrise.

 

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The sun finally crested over the mountains on the horizon.

 

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And not too long after, the clouds lit up.

 

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Views all around were grand, including toward Rainier

 

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and toward Sloan.

 

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Thanks to Ken, Mary, Tiva, and Anne for being great partners on this trip.

 

Ken wins the award for most expressive with his jaw-dropping, disconcerting "Oh ... my ... God" when he saw the impassable-looking ice jumble in front of him to his I-just-won-the-lottery "Woohoo!" when our bivy site came into view.

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