WA Pass Area/S. Early Winter Spire

[none_dup1]

Here's a short report of a fun and straightforward outing.

This past Sat. (3/31), Bob Davis and I drove over Highway 20 to Mazama. By late afternoon/early evening, there was about 6" of new light snow on the road at Rainy Pass, a little less at WA Pass.

We stayed at the lovely Freestone Inn in Mazama rather than camping at the Blue Lake trailhead, for we are soft city boys. At the Inn, we savored a fine pasta dish and a precocious California Merlot, then I hit the hot tub. This was rough duty.

Sunday morning, after a stack of fluffy French Toast, fresh-squeezed O.J., and a latte, we skinned up from the hairpin to the ridge that joins S. Early Winter spire. We then skied down a bit to the start of the S.W. Couloir route that is described in the first edition of Nelson/Potterfield.

The route is very straightforward. A bit of ice and rock under the snow, but nothing tricky. One axe and aluminum crampons worked fine. No rope needed going up. On top we watched two ravens dance and cackle on the cornices overhanging the East Wall. Very cool. Going down the gully, we did a few boot axe belays with the 30m rope for good measure. Our rock pro stayed in the pack.

Once back at our skis, we climbed back up to the ridge, then dropped down to the hairpin in nearly knee-deep light powder. A real treat for 2,000'. I suspect that anyone going up this week will enjoy similar fine conditions, for Old Man Winter has made one last appearance. Go get it.

John Sharp

Bellevue

[This message has been edited by MrGoodTime (edited 04-02-2001).]

[goatboy]

Thanks for the route report.

I climbed this route with two friends two years ago in May, the year of the BIG cascade snowpack.

The large chockstone which Nelson describes in his guidebook as the crux was completely buried and indistinguishable -- we climbed right over it on the 30-45 degree snow, using a single ice ax each.

Like you, we had a rope and some pro, but it stayed in the pack. We had crampons as well, which also stayed in the pack. I imagine that under different conditions (i.e. less snow, more ice or rock) that one might be very glad to have some protection, but we had moderately steep snow only. Like you, we also encountered a huge cornice at the top, which overhung the East Buttress.

There was so much snow, in fact, that one member of our party carried skis up the SW Couloir and actually skied back down the couloir from the top, which was exciting and terrifying to watch.

I think this route will be different this year, due to the lighter snowpack. I look forward to reports if anyone else goes up there anytime soon.

Steve Smith

[goatboy]

Thanks for the route report.

I climbed this route with two friends two years ago in May, the year of the BIG cascade snowpack.

The large chockstone which Nelson describes in his guidebook as the crux was completely buried and indistinguishable -- we climbed right over it on the 30-45 degree snow, using a single ice ax each.

Like you, we had a rope and some pro, but it stayed in the pack. We had crampons as well, which also stayed in the pack. I imagine that under different conditions (i.e. less snow, more ice or rock) that one might be very glad to have some protection, but we had moderately steep snow only. Like you, we also encountered a huge cornice at the top, which overhung the East Buttress.

There was so much snow, in fact, that one member of our party carried skis up the SW Couloir and actually skied back down the couloir from the top, which was exciting and terrifying to watch.

Though we had approached via spire gully (from the hairpin), we descended to the blue lake trailhead due to lots of point release avalanches barreling down spire gully in the late morning.

I think the route will be different this year, due to the lighter snowpack. For example, I wonder what that chockstone section was like for you??

I look forward to more reports if anyone else goes up there anytime soon.

Steve Smith

 

[none_dup1]

This goes to show what a dry year it's been! The chockstone is partially exposed now, but you walk right past it. I have been up the gully twice to get to the start of the S.W. Rib rock climb, once in late June when the chockstone was still mostly buried in snow, and once in early August when the gully was totally melted out and you had to climb up and around it. Right now it's no problem.

The lower portion of the gully before the "Y" could certainly be skied now, but skiing the upper portion would be borderline suicidal unless more snow were to fall. In several places, the hard snow/occassional ice patch was about two-three feet wide, with plenty of exposed rock on both sides. Not hard to climb up or down, but most folks probably wouldn't ski it now. Sounds like you guys hit ideal conditions!

[This message has been edited by MrGoodTime (edited 04-03-2001).]

[Freerider]

It's neat to hear the varying conditions of this route. I soloed it year before last, the day the road opened, and it was all ice. There was even a short water ice section. The chockstone was but a mere hump. It certainly was good fun!

[This message has been edited by Freerider (edited 04-03-2001).]

[goatboy]

 

 

[Matt_Anderson]

I was planning to go up and go do something on the East Face of Liberty Bell/Early Winters Spires this weekend. Trick is, I don't Ski, and would love to go as light and fast as possible. (Especially if I have to thike out the back side after Liberty Bell).

The reference to knee deep powder looked like a wake up call.

Any input on what the conditions will be for a snow shoer/person in boots. I was hoping for consolidated snow/a frozen crust in the early morning that would allow a speedy ascent to the rock. . .

I also don't want the only way to get back down the blue lake trail to be post holing for miles late at night . . .

Thanks

[philfort]

Conditions are still pretty winterlike up there now. We were a few miles west of the past and the snow conditions were a foot of dry powder on top of a foot of slushy snow, on top of a firm crust.

I think they got a bunch more snow last night (avie report said 4-8 inches on the east slope), and it looks snow showers and cool temps from tomorrow through the weekend.