willstrickland Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 Just a public service announcement: The first belay/rap station on Rogers Corner is missing a nut on one bolt. Appears to be a standard 3/8" bolt. The hanger is still there..threaded with sling and handing off the other bolt. Looks like the nut just spun off the bolt or something. This is not a big deal as far as belaying, you could link to the next belay or add gear. BUT, if you are planning to rap from the top of B.O.C. to that station, avoiding swinging around to get back into the station at the base of BOC...be aware. As a side note, a single 70m will put you on the ground if you decided to swing back in and rap from the base of BOC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 A single 60m from the base of BoC will get you to a ledge where it's a short and easy scramble to the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkemp Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 I've encountered missing nuts, or loose nuts. Is it common to carry nuts and wrench just in case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 My BD nut tool has holes in it that can be used to tighten nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted September 9, 2004 Author Share Posted September 9, 2004 For all you dirtbags I should add this Booty Alert: Take two extra long nut tools and you can probably score what appears to be a brand new red Metolius TCU...with those silly little dots on the lobes. It's on the 2nd pitch Roger's, about halfway up the pitch, in the crack in the right wall just below the where you climb around the little roof using the flake on the right and crack on left. Looks like someone bailed off it, there's a quicklink on the sling. It's not overcammed, and you can barely reach the trigger bar with a std nut tool. You'll need a second tool to push against the end or maybe reach the lobes. I worked on it a bit, but couldn't get a second tool on the end to push while pulling the trigger bar. If you go after it, take a 3/8 nut and fix the rap hanger eh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 I usually use a wired nut, just push the nut up the wire a bit then slide the wire over the loose bolt cinch the nut down and twist till its tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 God bless the internet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 I usually use a wired nut, just push the nut up the wire a bit then slide the wire over the loose bolt cinch the nut down and twist till its tight. there isn't a nut, that's what fell off, the hanger is still there hanging from the chains. Due to the angle of the bolt studs vs the angle of the pull on the anchor I wouldn't recommend trusting a nut cinched over the stud here. Someone needs to replace the nut - you can probably snag one from under the boulder below City Park Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted September 10, 2004 Share Posted September 10, 2004 For all you dirtbags I should add this Booty Alert: Take two extra long nut tools and you can probably score what appears to be a brand new red Metolius TCU...with those silly little dots on the lobes. It's on the 2nd pitch Roger's, about halfway up the pitch, in the crack in the right wall just below the where you climb around the little roof using the flake on the right and crack on left. Looks like someone bailed off it, there's a quicklink on the sling. It's not overcammed, and you can barely reach the trigger bar with a std nut tool. You'll need a second tool to push against the end or maybe reach the lobes. I worked on it a bit, but couldn't get a second tool on the end to push while pulling the trigger bar. If you go after it, take a 3/8 nut and fix the rap hanger eh. Man, there's a reason it's still there. 2-3 months ago, armed with a coathanger, a nut tool, and a stick, I also atttempted to booty this cam (yes, it is the same one). I spent 2.5 hours hanging there (on lead, no less--had to go get the coathanger). 2.5 hours, constantly working to booty this cam. Every five minutes or so, I could get it to move a couple inches, then it would overcam again in the deviously undulating crack. This continued on the order of 30 times. When it got too dark to see, I broke the stick, which had become integral in my methods. I downclimbed in shame, defeated by the shiny little red metolius range-finder cam. I treated my uncomplaining belayer to dinner in exchange for his immensely boring duty. btw there was no quicklink on it 2 months ago, and just about every part of that crack does in fact overcam the cam, that is why it is still there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted September 10, 2004 Share Posted September 10, 2004 pfft someone didn't pay attention to the metolius safety dots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted September 10, 2004 Share Posted September 10, 2004 No I think they did--the green "optimal" dots are damn near identical to overcamming range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 10, 2004 Share Posted September 10, 2004 trad climbing is too damn expensive...hahahaha someone just spent 50 bucks for a "bolt"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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