going to zion

[tyree]

Never been, going next week for 9 days. Any beta on good aid/free routes, camping, rack, good eats, ect would be much appricated.

[dberdinka]

What? In person wasn't good enough?

 

A good approach would be to do an easy wall first then decide from there what’s next.

 

You and Frosty should be competent enough to do any of easy wall climbs in a day. Prodigal Son, Spaceshot, Touchstone Wall, Moonlight. Though a common strategy is to fix two ropes then climb it the next day. Personally I think Touchstone wall is the most fun. Moonlight and Spaceshot are both striking but boring. Prodigal is fun too, lots of fixed gear. Do Touchstone if it’s cool and cloudy, Prodigal if it’s hot.

 

If that goes well the next step up is something like Lunar Ecstasy, Desert Shield, Swoop Gimp or the Lowe Route on Angels Landing. They all go clean at C3. I can vouch for Lunar X, it’s really friggin good. Two full days with a portaledge bivi. The first couple pitches of Swoop Gimp were unreal, overhanging micronut seam. Supposedly not as classic up higher though? If you want beta on hard routes e-mail Joe Puryear. He’s very helpful and I get the impression he’s done more than a few, a lot more!

 

For harder aid routes bring LOTS of HB brass offsets, particularly the #4, #5 and #6s. Doubles of aluminum offsets and offset aliens wouldn’t hurt on any of the routes either.

 

I wouldn’t miss the free climbing either. Up by the Tunnel a good day would be to do Ashtar Command and The Headache. Both excellent, solid and well protected. Iron Messiah is another trade route that’s supposedly good.

 

You need rest day activities. Go canyoneering, just do it! Bring a beater rope you don’t mind getting sandy. www.canyoneeringusa.com has lots of good info. Spry Canyon is incredible and can be done without wetsuits there is very little swimming, just bring a change of cloth and two ropes. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!! Keyhole Canyon to Pine Creek Canyon makes for a very fun day though crowded and you’ll probably need wet or drysuits. The list goes on. Kolob Creek and Imlay Canyon are both excellent, long canyons I did overnights in. Or just go for a walk up the narrows.

 

If you just want to go for a day hike the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek up in the Kolob Canyons is very scenic.

 

Free camping is about 7 miles west of the park just off the highway along the Virgin River. Generally pretty quiet. Ask at the gear shop or canyoneering shop in Springdale for directions if that’s not enough info.

 

In springdale everyone eats at the Bit & Spur though it doesn’t quite do it for me. The Pizza and Noodle House is a-ok, so is the little Mexican place Oscars.

 

If the weather is ass there is some fun climbing down near Saint George 45 minutes away, or it’s only 2.5 hrs to Red Rocks.

 

I’m jealous I want to be in Zion

[chirp]

Good eats: Bit and Spur and Oscars deli in Springdale. Outside the east entrance on the plateau is a great Bison grill ( I forgot the name)

 

The big walls in Zion Canyon are a must do, BUT head up to the Kolob Canyons and spend a day up the South Fork of Taylor Creek. Some fabulous sport routes ( both jug fests and delicate slabs) and bring along a small rack for some of the nice cracks up there too ( Last Rites and Spiderfingers to mention two good ones out of a bunch that exist.)

 

 

 

Dont forget to save a day for some canyoneering...might be a bit cool but some dry easy stuff like Behunin, Pine Creek, or Keyhole.

 

Have fun and I will be envious! I miss this place!

[specialed]

Free camping = so cal frat boys and mexican american families on vacation. Oompa Oompa. Lots of turds in the woods. The Headache is a real fun and safe free climb. So is Iron Messiah but longer and not as fun. The standard "beginner big wall" Touchstone, I think is totally quality and worth doing b/c of the exposure and the quality free climbing up high (or down lower if you're strong enough).

Zions way fun and low key compared to Yos. Kolob canyon would be worth checking out too.