Yosemite Sept 21-25

[Stretch75]

My cousin got me a plane ticket to go to California with her. I mentioned that we should head down to Yosemite for a couple of days and check it out. Here is the problem:

 

I can lead sport routes up to 5.10 comfortably, and some 5.11 struggle. I havent done much trad climbing, or crack climbing, which from what I can tell, is the main style down there. I do have a rack but dont know if it will be enough. Does anyone know of any sport climbs? Or better yet, any easy trad to get started out on while Im there?

[tomtom]

Try Supertopo.

[Lambone]

I would pretty much forget about sport climbing unless you want to climb some slabs up in Tolumne.

 

If you have a rack of some nuts-hexs and range of cams you should be able to jump on some easier classic multipitch crack routes.

 

Nutcracker on Manure Pile Butress would be my first suggestion. Don't be turned off by the name of the formation, it is a great climb.

[Stretch75]

I was doing some reading on MPB. Was checking out a guide book, and it said that place was a good starting point. In my rack, I have pretty much one of everything, cams, nuts. I have some hexes also, but not a full set. Should I double up on everything, or do you think I can get away with the set I have?

 

Also, I am ok at building multi-dir anchors. Been reading Climbing Anchors, and it shows some good points. I know I need the experience of building them more frequently. Do I need to build each anchor with pro or are there belay stations ( with bolts) throughout the area of climbs?

[Lambone]

Stretch,

 

Cool...sounds like you are ready! Go climb Outerspace or Orbit and that will give you a good gauge on what type of routes you'll be up for in the valley.

 

When I was about 16 I wen't to Yos with a rack of 1 of each up to 4" here is what I climbed, all would be good:

 

Nutcracker

Commitment

Braile Book

E. But. of Middle Cathedral

Central Pillar of Frenze

 

Some of the popular routes like Central Pillar have all bolted stations. Some have all natural belays, so beef up on your belay building skills. Suggestion- try not to use cams at the belays.

 

If you were to double up on sizes, I would say get a set of Aliens to double up your small sizes. With bigger sizes a set of hexs and a set of cams will be fine. Of course, if you can afford another set of cams, go for it.

 

It all depends how comfortable you are with runouts.

[Lambone]

Also add Snake Dike and Royal Arches to the list for classic easy/long climbs in stellar positions.

[Rad]

Should be fun.

 

Tuolumne has lots of great, moderate trad routes (Regular route on Fairview, Cathedral Peak, and many others), but it will be rather cold up there. The plus side is that it will not be crowded.

 

In the valley, Both Braile Book and the Nutcracker are great climbs with jam cracks at their cruxes. I agree that the cracks of Outer Space are a good barometer for whether you're ready for these two. If you're feeling more conservative, get comfortable on After 6(5.6) and After Seven (5.7) Manure Pile as warm-ups.

 

If you do well on the Nutcracker and Braile book think trying the Northeast Buttress of Upper Cathedral (IV 5.9).

 

Guide book translations: '5.9+' means f#$%#@ hard. 'Slot' means awkward offwidth. 'Pro to 3 inches' means bring at least 2 pieces that are 3 inches (like #3 camalots) because you might encounter 50 feet of continuous fist jamming.

 

Snake Dike is gorgeous. A few 5.7 moves and then easy friction forever. Long approach. Just take a few nuts as you only need to place one or two pieces. The rest is bolts.

 

Crest Jewel is super fun but a bit tad runout. Only bolts.

 

If you do Royal Arches, which is fun, don't be discouraged by the first ten feet of '5.6' chimney. It is incredibly greasy from being polished by thousands of shoes. The rest of the climb is much easier.

 

Have a great trip.