fenderfour Posted August 25, 2004 Posted August 25, 2004 Lightwing or Techwing? I don't think that I will be doing any extreme WI6 or gnarly mixed stuff. Mostly Alpine ice and funking around in Lilloet. FYI - I want to replace my straight BD Black Prophets. Quote
fenderfour Posted August 25, 2004 Author Posted August 25, 2004 Is there any particular reason? Quote
John Frieh Posted August 25, 2004 Posted August 25, 2004 I had this dilemma last year: what to replace my prophets with. I solicited feedback from a number of sources; this email kinda sealed it for me (in regard to light wing or alp wing) as water ice is something I would be using them for: Hi John Bill forwarded your query to me. I used a Light Wing and an Alp Wing on the Emperor Face. If I was going to spring for a pair I'd go with two Alp Wings as I feel that they can waterfall ice climb well too (the Light may be too light for many on waterfall ice). good luck and, Happy Trails Barry I have always wondered if he used this combination by choice or because one of his partners on the ascent dropped 2 tools… hmmm. A side note: (sorry I know you didn’t ask about other tools but I thought you might want to know) After a season on the Alps I sold them and am now swinging a pair of aztars which for me (which doesn’t mean you or any other sprayer on this page should like them or use them so don’t worry about needing to tell me how much they and I suck compared to you and your tools) work great for certain types of climbing. But I also have a pair of quarks and a pair of ergos. If you (or anybody for that matter) are interested in swinging any of these in the next few months drop me a line; I’d be glad to help in any way I can. Quote
dbb Posted August 25, 2004 Posted August 25, 2004 Definitely go for a clearance shaft tool. In Coastal ice you'll use that clearance a LOT. You've got the power and the hand size to swing a heavy headed tool, so the cobra might be a good choice too (quarks are light). Same sized grip as the prophets more or less. People love the cobra. Very damp like the prophets too, but not much clearance. If you're choosing between the two grivels, I'd say definitely the tech wing. I saw though that grivel is coming out with a new techwing looking thing. maybe you can get em on clearance.. I'm guessing the Viper may be too small of grip for you, but maybe not. Regardless of the grade that you're climbing, I've found that climbing with good tools is more fun.You can use all the tools (minus any full pinky wrappers) on any alpine route too. D Quote
fenderfour Posted August 25, 2004 Author Posted August 25, 2004 I have found the The Tech Wing for $140 each. I swung Micah's Light Machines at Baker and they great, even a little sexier than the BD Cobras. Grivel says that the Tech Wing has the same basic geometry as the Light Machines, the bend has been replaced with a gentle curve. Thanks for the input Quote
John Frieh Posted August 25, 2004 Posted August 25, 2004 (edited) http://www.sportextreme.com/ If you can wait for it to ship from overseas these guys are cheap! Quarks for 180... In the past they had tech wings for hella cheap. Edit: I almost forgot; Petzl is changing the quark this year (out in Oct) so chances are most online vendors will discount last year's model... Edited August 25, 2004 by NOLSe Quote
ashw_justin Posted August 26, 2004 Posted August 26, 2004 How much for your Black Prophets? (can't be toooooo much, I already have one BP and one Shrike...) Quote
fenderfour Posted August 26, 2004 Author Posted August 26, 2004 I'm not sure that I want to sell them. I might butcher one to make a special tool to help a single-handed friend do a little ice climbing. Quote
IceCold4000 Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 http://www.sportextreme.com/ If you can wait for it to ship from overseas these guys are cheap! Quarks for 180... In the past they had tech wings for hella cheap. Edit: I almost forgot; Petzl is changing the quark this year (out in Oct) so chances are most online vendors will discount last year's model... Hey Nols, Have you heard of anyone ordering Quarks from these guys. I did a week ago and haven't gotten any responses from them. WTF!? Quote
John Frieh Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 Remember they are in Europe so responses generally come the next day. I would think an internet site that big would have sent you an order conformation... did you get one at the time of checkout? If so reference that in an email and maybe even call them and leave a message or something. Did your CC get billed yet? When I ordered from them I got an order confirmation and tracking number but shipping took forever due to customs. Hope this helps! Quote
Farrgo Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 Ice Cold, I got quarks from them last season and they got them to me in like three days. just in time for a trip out to banff. this year i ordered a pair of double ropes from them and they said there was some delay or something for about a week. eventually i just cancelled the order and went to outdoor-walmart. not sure whats up with them this year. Quote
IceCold4000 Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 They haven't been shipped yet and they said they would by Sept 25. I guess its a little early to worry but they haven't any of my mails so far. I have a ups and order confirmation but its just taking them a bit longer. Do you know anyone who got the quarks from them? Quote
fenderfour Posted September 29, 2004 Author Posted September 29, 2004 One thing about overseas companies: I was hit with an import tarriff for the Tech Wings I bought at Barrabes.com. It was 4% plus a $5 "tarriff forwarding charge" from DHL. Barrabes sent me a coupon for 4% off my next purchase. -<shrug>- Quote
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