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Ice toolage


fenderfour

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I had this dilemma last year: what to replace my prophets with. I solicited feedback from a number of sources; this email kinda sealed it for me (in regard to light wing or alp wing) as water ice is something I would be using them for:

 

Hi John

 

Bill forwarded your query to me. I used a Light Wing and an Alp Wing on the Emperor Face. If I was going to spring for a pair I'd go with two Alp Wings as I feel that they can waterfall ice climb well too (the Light may be too light for many on waterfall ice).

 

good luck and,

Happy Trails

Barry

 

I have always wondered if he used this combination by choice or because one of his partners on the ascent dropped 2 tools… hmmm.

 

A side note: (sorry I know you didn’t ask about other tools but I thought you might want to know) After a season on the Alps I sold them and am now swinging a pair of aztars which for me (which doesn’t mean you or any other sprayer on this page should like them or use them so don’t worry about needing to tell me how much they and I suck compared to you and your tools) work great for certain types of climbing.

 

But I also have a pair of quarks and a pair of ergos. If you (or anybody for that matter) are interested in swinging any of these in the next few months drop me a line; I’d be glad to help in any way I can.

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Definitely go for a clearance shaft tool. In Coastal ice you'll use that clearance a LOT. You've got the power and the hand size to swing a heavy headed tool, so the cobra might be a good choice too (quarks are light). Same sized grip as the prophets more or less. People love the cobra. Very damp like the prophets too, but not much clearance. If you're choosing between the two grivels, I'd say definitely the tech wing. I saw though that grivel is coming out with a new techwing looking thing. maybe you can get em on clearance.. I'm guessing the Viper may be too small of grip for you, but maybe not.

 

Regardless of the grade that you're climbing, I've found that climbing with good tools is more fun.You can use all the tools (minus any full pinky wrappers) on any alpine route too.

 

D

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I have found the The Tech Wing for $140 each.

 

I swung Micah's Light Machines at Baker and they great, even a little sexier than the BD Cobras. Grivel says that the Tech Wing has the same basic geometry as the Light Machines, the bend has been replaced with a gentle curve.

 

Thanks for the input

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http://www.sportextreme.com/

 

If you can wait for it to ship from overseas these guys are cheap! Quarks for 180... In the past they had tech wings for hella cheap.

 

Edit: I almost forgot; Petzl is changing the quark this year (out in Oct) so chances are most online vendors will discount last year's model...

Edited by NOLSe
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  • 1 month later...
http://www.sportextreme.com/

 

If you can wait for it to ship from overseas these guys are cheap! Quarks for 180... In the past they had tech wings for hella cheap.

 

Edit: I almost forgot; Petzl is changing the quark this year (out in Oct) so chances are most online vendors will discount last year's model...

 

 

Hey Nols,

 

Have you heard of anyone ordering Quarks from these guys. I did a week ago and haven't gotten any responses from them. WTF!?

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Remember they are in Europe so responses generally come the next day. I would think an internet site that big would have sent you an order conformation... did you get one at the time of checkout? If so reference that in an email and maybe even call them and leave a message or something. Did your CC get billed yet?

 

When I ordered from them I got an order confirmation and tracking number but shipping took forever due to customs. Hope this helps!

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Ice Cold, I got quarks from them last season and they got them to me in like three days. just in time for a trip out to banff. this year i ordered a pair of double ropes from them and they said there was some delay or something for about a week. eventually i just cancelled the order and went to outdoor-walmart. not sure whats up with them this year.

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