Info on Warrior Peak

[heatmiser]

I'm interested in climbing Warrior Peak, but have not been able to gather much information on the climb other than what's in the Climber's Guide to the Olympic Mountains. So I'd be interested in any input anyone could offer me on climbing the southeast summit, 7,300.

The guide recommends Warrior, saying Route 2 is "an excellent climb." I'm wondering whether this is a true Class 3 route, or whether it's actually more like a Class 4 requiring rope and belay. Does anyone know how exposed it is? I have climbed two routes rated Class 3 using descriptions in the guide — Mt. Stone and The Brothers. Can anyone tell me how Warrior Route 2 stacks up to these climbs in terms of route-finding, difficulty and especially exposure?

The only trip report I found online described a mountaineering class forced to climb beyond their abilities after their guides were surprised to find Class 5 rock near the summit. I'm guessing they went via the guide's Route 1, which is rated Class 3 even though the description sounds like Class 4.

 

Thanks!

[mtn_mouse]

Warrior is a fun day climb. You leave the trail and climb up a chute on the west side. Then there is a col between the two peaks of warrior. The one to the left, north is fairly easy, and you follow a short ridge to the top. The right one, south peak, is harder. I would call it class 4-5.0 and I used a rope. There is a short, but really vertical pitch, and you will want to protect yourself there. It isn't hard, but I sure would not call it class 3. Have fun.

[Fairweather]

This was taken in May (1994).

 

The rock above the saddle was rather steep, but was snow/ice covered so I can't tell you the exact class, but I can't imagine it would be harder than class 3 or 4. The views from the basin above Home Lake just get better and better as you climb, until you finally reach the summit and see this:

 

The seldom seen north face of Consatnce. Warrior peak is truly one of my favorite climbs.

[AJScott]

wow, that is a great photo of Constance, that mountain is special to me. First solo climb for me...and how beutiful in the winter...It looks like some fun route options for winter climbing

[dlofgren]

Thanks for the great pics.

Haven't been in there since 1970. Your shots are motivating me to make the trip back. Beautiful area. Thanks.

[cj001f]

Awesome Pics Fairweather

[Crux]

To climb "Route I" up the SE Summit of Warrior (when it's snow-free) I'd say you need to bring an ability to climb up a low class 5 pitch and a short length of rope to get back down.

 

To clarify my point of view, here is my experience: Ten years ago I ascended the SE summit of Warrior Peak by way of the 6320' saddle above Charlia Lakes. From there I went up and over peak 6974' and down to the 6700' Warrior Peak-Alphabet Ridge saddle and then up and over the NE summit of Warrior to the saddle between the two summits of Warrior. I was traveling with a light backpack and GP mountaineering boots all the way. No problem until standing at that first pitch below the SE summit of Warrior. Granted, as a snow climb it would be easier. For any serious rock lead it would be easier. But for a person maxing out while cruising at class 3 or 4, carrying a backpack, and wearing GP mountaineering boots, the SE summit required some extra concentration. Like the book says, "the first rock pitch above the snow [or scree] is actually quite difficult." I got up, all the while hoping I could find "Route 2" to be an easier way to down-climb. No such luck. To get back down, I scavenged a bunch of abandoned rappel slings, daisy-chained the old webbing together, and used it to rappel.

 

(When I got home, I added rope to my gear and signed-up for a basic climbing course.)

 

mC