[TR] Forbidden- East Ridge Direct 7/14/2004

[goatboy]

Climb: Forbidden-East Ridge Direct

 

Date of Climb: 7/14/2004

 

Trip Report:

Samantha "Little Wing" Goff and I set out for Marblemount mid-week to nab a permit for Boston Basin. In the past, I've made two attempts on Forbidden E Ridge and been shut down (first time by rain and whiteout, second time by inability to get a permit due to overcrowding). As we drove West from Mazama, the rain began to fall around Rainy Pass. We were undaunted, and soon the weather cleared. Arriving in Marblemount, we were dismayed to find that the Basin was full of guided parties (over 25 people registered for that night). Bummer. We contemplated fleeing back East, but then resolved to do a non-traditional climb, starting from the Cascade River Road.

 

We drove to the road closure at Eldorado Creek and started biking up the road, soon arriving at the Boston Basin pullout. We camped nearby, and enjoyed a few Rainier beers chilled in the raging creek above our camp:

 

 

2 AM: Woke up and drank coffee, ate mashed potatoes with cheese and hot sauce

 

3:15 Left camp by headlamp

 

6:00 arrived Boston Basin

 

8:30 arrived at Gendarme marking start of E Ridge Route

 

We roped up and siimulclimbed, mostly staying on the ridge crest and drinking in the spectacular views and "unrelenting exposure" that Nelson mentions in his guidebook. At times, the route would veer off the ridge crest, as shown here, traversing above the NE Face on steep, solid rock:

 

 

As we climbed higher, the views continued to improve: (Note Samantha revelling in the shadows in the lower right hand corner)

 

 

 

We had an opportunity to get vibracious climbing the 5.8 gendarme, which was surprisingly steep for the rating, but enjoyable and well protected:

 

 

Soon, we were on eay terrain again and speeding toward the summit. We topped out around noon and enjoyed some food and water before turning our attention to the NE Face descent.

 

I found it to be pretty straightforward, if a bit loose and wandering. The key to this descent, for me, was simply micro-navigating and linking together lots of easy grassy ramps and ledges -- essentially zigzagging up and down as you traverse rather than trying to go straight across. We were back at the gendarme where we started at 3 PM, twelve hours after leaving the campsite at the trailhead.

 

At this point, fatigue started to set in a bit and we definitely took our time getting back down. Having bikes stashed helped a lot, and we were back at the car around 8 PM I believe.

 

It was a great climb in a fabulous location. I definitely recommend it, though I must admit that I liked the West Ridge better. If you've done the W Ridge before, then the E Ridge provides an enjoyable, more challenging, less crowded alternative with a convenient descent back to boots and ice ax.

 

Thanks to Little Wing for a great day in the Cascades.

 

Gear Notes:

Stoppers

6 Cams (up to #2 camalot)

12 slings

Ice Ax

No Crampons needed

 

Approach Notes:

Road is now OPEN again.

 

Trail is snow free. Boston Basin melting out quickly. Not too much snow left down low, lots of running water and high water levels at creek crossings!!!!

 

"I been vibracious for YEARS....."

Edited July 18, 2004 by goatboy

[layton]

Great photos!!!!!

[DonnV]

Nice TR and photos, Steve. If we'd been 30 minutes faster on our climb we would have met you on top.

 

And nice job getting around the permit problem. I think Mountain Madness was the main culprit.

[goatboy]

Thanks, glad you liked them!

 

I just uploaded a few more photos:

 

Big air and gendarme!

 

 

Simulclimbing to the summit, past the last of the difficulties:

 

 

Looking down the NE Face (rappels take you to the grassy ledges and rock ramps which comprise the traversing descent)

 

[Billygoat]

Great photos! Nice effort

 

How do you know which ledges to take on the NE face?

 

[AaronB]

Nice TR, thanks for posting the photos.

[goatboy]

Great photos! Nice effort

 

How do you know which ledges to take on the NE face?

 

Damn good question. First time I did it, we screwed it up by traversing too high across the NE Face. This time, we did 5 rappels, traversed 100 feet or so, then another short rappel down to grassy ledges. Then it was pretty much straight across, with minor ups and downs linking the easiest ramps and ledge systems. If done this way, it was mostly 3rd class with a few exciting 4th class, exposed spots. It's never HARD climbing, but constantly exposed and on sections of loose rock.

 

Hint: If you do it, look for cairns which mark the way, and stay low, heading for the big obvious gendarme on the ridge crest.

 

We also found that by avoiding the big loose gully at the end of the traverse, we were able to regain the ridge on very solid, reasonable 4th class moves just to the climber's right (or West) of the gully.

 

It can be really stressful and time-consuming if you do it wrong, as I did in July of 2003. Either way, it goes.

[JoshK]

Nice job! This is one of my favorite climbs for all out fun factor in a great area.

[goatboy]

Hey y'all,

 

Just wanted to point out that this climb would be a good choice in late season, now that the W Ridge Couloir is more problematic. I don't think it's a BETTER climb than the W Ridge, but part of the beauty of the W Ridge dissipates after to couloir gets ugly. Go get it!