[TR] Black Peak- NE Ridge 7/15/2004

[Alpine_Tom]

Climb: Black Peak-NE Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 7/15/2004

 

Trip Report:

"You're in a foul mood. Why don't you just go climbing tomorrow?"

"Yeah, maybe I will!"

"Fine!"

"Fine!"

And thus are climbing plans made. I set my alarm for a 4:00 AM start and headed off up the highway, still divided between about three different objectives, but decided on Black Peak. Man, it's a tedious drive! In Vol 2, Nelson says that it's an easy peak to get to for a fun day outing. Well, the access is certainly easy once you get to the trailhead, but that drive is, as Juan would say, a mother fucker.

I got to the trailhead about 8:00 and immediately began the bug repellant dosing. I got this "organic" herbal bug repellant from Dan Page's shop. Don't waste your money.

The hike in is very pleasant, the nicest trail I've been on in Washington, better maintained (probably through minimal use) than the Snow Lake trail at Alpental. I had a brain fart and took the wrong branch of the trail to Lake Ann, and lost half an hour.

I got to the base of the actual climb (at 8000') by about 1:00, put on the rock shoes, looked again at the route description (I'd hauled the whole book along) and almost bailed after reading the "low-to mid fifth class for several pitches" but decided to give it a shot.

It went pretty quickly, not having to mess with ropes, rigging belays, and all that. I was at the summit in about an hour. All the way up, I kept eyeing the east face, figuring I could bail onto it if I needed to, but the rock was plenty good, lots of holds, lots of features. It's a lot like W. Ridge of Forbidden, or the W. Ridge of N. Twin.

There's a functioning summit book up there, and so I read over the previous entries. Someone (I forget who) claimed the first nude ascent last year, and I saw Lee and Josh's entry from last Father's Day.

I descended vaguely the s. ridge. The descent sucks; it took me longer to get down than up. Then, some glissading to the mostly-frozen wing lake, and out.

 

Gear Notes:

rock shoes (probably didn't need) crampons (handy) bug repellant (needed more)

 

Approach Notes:

really, really, nice trail in to heather pass, then talus scrambling.

[AaronB]

[Alpinfox]

 

Nice solo! I tried to do that last year in September and that dark rock was so hot it was burning my hands and I had to turn back.

 

 

Tedious drive!??!? That's a BEAUTIFUL drive.

[AllYouCanEat]

Sweet. I skied the easy side this spring and also climbed to the saddle below the ridge to look at the northwest(?) face. This was a nice place.

[dbb]

I bet driving there on a motorcycle would be a sweet outing, esp by going up through darrington and rockport. Nice solo, That's a beautiful and fun climb!

[JoshK]

Nice Tom. That is a fun little climb. I didnt find the rock quality too bad like many people complain of. A nice peak in a cool area...hard to beat!