Grivel Air Tech Evolution vs. regular Air Tech ?

[rhyang]

Just wondering if anyone has opinion on the Grivel Air Tech Evolution ice axe. Do you think it's an improvement over the regular Air Tech ? (I know, 'for what' would be the next question)

[russ]

I haven't used the Evo version, but some of the changes are obvious improvements making it a little more technical oriented. The bend upper shaft will give improved ice climbing performance and spike will penetrate better than the pseudo spike of the Air Tech. However if you mostly use it as a general mountaineering axe, the more aggressive angle on the head will make it less efficient for self-arresting.

 

So, as you said "for what". I like the Evo changes, and if I were buying again would choose that model...ymmv

[rhyang]

I notice that the Air Tech Racing (B-rated) has that cut-off shaft thing which is supposed to function like a spike, but the regular Air Tech (T-rated) looks like it has a real spike (could be wrong). Anyhow, thanks for the info.

[DPS]

I have the Air Tech Racing and love it. Having only seen the Evolution and swung it in the store, I can only guess its performance. That said, the shaft is thicker and easier to grip while swinging it ice tool style. I think this would be an ideal tool for routes like N Ridge Baker, Liberty Ridge, etc.

[Zoran]

I have Evo.

My previous axe was Camp alpine model (10 years old) and little bit short. I am very happy how Evo looks like and especially with weight. I am sure you will love it. I have to practice self arrest to see is russ right pointing to possible issue.

I can't see problem and I think it will work even better than traditionaly designed axes. I'll let you know.

Z

[rhyang]

The pick has positive clearance, and the shaft bend seems like it would offer more leverage in a self-arrest situation. All theoretical, of course.

[glacier]

Just picked up an Air Tech racing at 2nd ascet (on sale) - they also have the BD ravens on sale - both seem to be good ltweight general mountain axes - haven't taken mine out in the snow/scree yet, the only concern I have is that the beveled bottom spike is aluminum, vs. steel, so may not wear as well if I'm poking around dirt and talus with it.

[Ade]

I have an Air Tech racing and really like it. The alloy spike is fine for general use, it has worn quite significantly but this is a lightweight axe and as such you shouldn't expect the same level of bombproof durability that you might get out of an axe that is one and a helf times the weight.

 

Looking at the picks on the racing and evo there shouldn't be much of a difference self arresting. The real issue is with reverse curve picks found on technical ice tools. These tend to bite very aggresively when self arresting; either pulling themselves from the climbers grasp or causing injury. A friend of mine self arrested with a technical tool and dislocated his shoulder in the process.

[rhyang]

Just an fyi: Bought a 66cm Evo (slider, not the long leash), and used it last weekend on the north side of Mt. Shasta.

 

Did some group-arrest practice with a rope team and didn't notice any problems. Plunged the pick into glacier ice during crevasse rescue practice, and was pretty well impressed. The steel spike worked well on summit day, where we encountered patches of blue ice. In areas of talus / rock I had to use the axe for balance. Pounded a picket in with the spine. Dug out a buried deadman with the adze, where it was good to have a solid 'shovel'. Good solid tool.

 

The guides were using BD Raven's, so can't really say I was pushing the limits of the tool, except maybe for the glacier 'ice climbing' (really just hauling myself out of the crevasse after prusiking up). It was kinda cool to whack that pick in and lever myself up while gripping the adze.

 

Afterwards, had to sharpen up the spike a bit because of all the clanking on rock, and some of the fancy paint job was pretty well smudged. Small spots of light rust were evident on the head, but that seems normal for Grivel chromoly steel.

[terrible_ted]

These tend to bite very aggresively when self arresting; either pulling themselves from the climbers grasp or causing injury. A friend of mine self arrested with a technical tool and dislocated his shoulder in the process.

 

That sounds harsh, but I'd prefer a dislocated shoulder to a "failure to self-arrest."

 

-t

[Nick]

I have both the air tech and the air tech evolution. I will continue to use the air tech often because it is slightly lighter, but the evolution does everything a bit better than the old air tech. It has exactly the same pick and adze, but the moderate angle at the top of the shaft makes the tool set better in "piolet ancre" mode, it seems to allow a more comfortable, positive and strong wrist angle both in self arrest and when using the axe as a brake durring sitting glissades. I find the angle does not interfere with using the ax as a cane, or when plunging the shaft into snow. I like the steel spike on the evolution better than the aluminum spike on the old style ax; the steel spike is easier to get through hard hard snow and is slightly more secure when used as an ice cane.