[TR] Chianti Spire- East Face 7/10/2004

[chucK]

Climb: Chianti Spire-East Face

 

Date of Climb: 7/10/2004

 

Trip Report:

Jeff and I had an ambitious day planned. We were gonna drive up to WA Pass, hump our bivy up to the base of Clean Break (the plan for Sunday), then climb Rebel Yell. Plan went mostly well, though the weather didn't really help us out much. Didn't rain, but it was c-c-c-c-cold!

 

Anyway, we did our hump in, set up camp at the base of Clean Break, then headed up toward Chianti at around 1:45 pm.

Heading up a couloir below the East side of Burgundy Col

 

We started up the climb around 3pm. I lead the first pitch and got the screaming barfies for the first time in a long while. The first time in July probably forever!

 

offwidth pitch and route above

 

Jeff got the offwidth since I led it last year, and Jeff loves those freakin' things anyway . Actually, it was pretty fun, on second.

 

"blind steparound"

 

I did a variation on the next pitch. Instead of using the "blind steparound" guidebook beta, I employed a nad-scum hand-traverse grovel about the tricky arete. It worked anyway, and I only had to endure a bit of heckling disguised as well-meaning post-hoc climbing advice.

 

start of intense crux pitch

 

The crux pitch is badass. Overhanging handcrack in a corner followed by steep strenous fisting for a long ways. Last year AlpineK linked this thing with the previous stepacross pitch. Burly lead. I think the way we did it this year was probably better for all involved though.

 

Final pitch is more of the same clean wide crack goodness, though nowhere near as sustained as p4. A nice finish. Jeff tagged the true summit (I did it last year) and we hurried to get down as the c-c-c-c-old wind was howling up top!

 

On the first throw our 7mm fell behind a big flake and was way hung up (knot in end). I quickly decided we were gonna have to cut it (only lost a couple feet) and hacked at it as fast as I could with my amazingly dull (replacement) pocket knife, while I knew Jeff stood up top getting hammered by the icy wind. I noted another rope hung up inside the crevice. Watch out for this one!

 

We rapped the route, which worked pretty well, but the last pull was really tough due to drag over the rock. You can rap straight down, but I didn't want to muck around in the snow at the base already being so damn cold.

 

it was cold up there

 

Once we were walking, we warmed up a bit, we made it back to camp about 10pm. Quick dinner and cold beers in the freakin' freezin' wind.

 

...to be continued [Clean Break]

 

Gear Notes:

Cams to 4.5, used 'em all. Yellow alien placement in offwidth, too big for #5 Camalot above.

 

No crampons necessary. Did use ice-axes a lot.

 

60m ropes get you from "Bookmobile" Ledge to anchor slings at base of "blind steparound" pitch in one rap.

 

Approach Notes:

About 1:15 from base of Clean Break to Chianti.

[pnut]

What fun...Good TR...is there any gear for the offwidth section that is photographed? It certainly looks bigger than 4.5"

[matt_warfield]

Good work! It's refreshing to know how much can be done in a weekend with the proper logistics, fitness, ability, and motivation. Great pics of both this and Clean Break.

[Alpinfox]

 

Dude... bringing a "Hansel" for the wide stuff is aid.

 

[glassgowkiss]

chuck, fun climb. but... i would be a bit more conservative with wording. 5.10 with bomb-proof pro isn't all that intense or bad-ass.

note on the crux pitch you can stem between 2 crack (on the wide section) almost all the way to the ledge, hence avoid off-with climbing all together. there is a bolt rigth before this section, so there isn't really any need for #4 or 4.5 camalot. 3.5 will be enough. fun route though.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=2860&password=&sort=1&cat=998&page=1

[chucK]

"Badass" as in fun! I'll stick by that one.

 

Maybe I was a little loose with the "i" word. I am calmed down now, and I would just call it "strenuous", for me that is.

 

A the #4 and #4.5 were nice to have on the next pitch after the badass intense crux pitch.

 

What'd I do to piss you off this time bayyyyyyyy-BEE!