[TR] Sahale Peak- Quien Sabe Glacier 7/10/2004

[Chad_A]

Climb: Sahale Peak-Quien Sabe Glacier

 

Date of Climb: 7/10/2004

 

Trip Report:

My girlfriend,Megan, and one of my best friends, Rob, had never been up an alpine outing; I figured it was about time. Originally, the plan was Adams (chill enough, but somewhat boring), until a pal of mine, Jaime, mentioned Sahale Peak while on our trip to Colchuck. After showing Nelson's description of Sahale to Megan and Rob, they were sold, and so was I, since I'd never been up to Boston Basin, at all.

 

I helped them get packed, and they did quite well with their own rationales of how to do things, considering this was their first time. Nothing major was forgotten, and in the broad spectrum of things, everything went off without a hitch.

Here's a shot of Johannesburg from the approach:

 

And, another of the two of them on the approach:

 

After setting up shop in the Basin camp, as usual, we were visited by many, mostly of the furry type. One, while we were asleep, saw fit to chew a hole in Rob's new Chaos pack to get to a bag of dried cranberries he'd forgotten, and to gnaw on his trekking pole straps.

Here's the mule deer of terror:

 

The next day, Friday, we threw together a small pack each, with glacier gear, and went up to the lower glacier/snowfields to practice a z-pulley, and they both did well. We had an occasional view, but mostly, the mountains were socked in. After this, we headed back down to the camp, ate, and were in bed at 7 pm. We awoke at 12, only to find pea soup outside the tent, and at 2 am, I woke us up, in the same conditions, and just admitted we'd be walking up in a mist.

 

On the way up, the clouds did break a bit:

 

One of the summit awaiting:

 

Here's a shot of them, by the schrund; socked in again:

 

Finally got a shot of Forbidden from the Col:

 

From the Col, we headed up next to the cornices, and then up and onto a short section of wet, exposed rock. I had them take off their crampons, for they'd never walked on rock w/ crampons before. I had Megan stay on the snow, to be able to arrest if I should fall, and she "prussiked" me across. Once over the rock and onto the snow again, I hammered in a picket, and belayed them across. Once again, the crampons were donned, and were were on our way.

 

Once up to the base of the rock summit, I pounded in another picket, and belayed them past me, and up to the rock slab, and then climbed up to them after they were safe and off the slope. From there, I did a running belay, using a nut and a cam, on the way to the summit. From there, I put them on top rope belay from the rap station above, and belayed them up. Before they knew it, we were all on top:

 

We smiled, lots, and then I had them downclimb, still on toprope, and then I downclimbed myself, and we made our way down without a hitch. In camp, they were beat, but smiling. I'd say that Megan will do it again, but Rob, well, it may be a while! Whenever you're ready, man, whenever you're ready

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Standard glacier attire, but route could be soloed. Schrund easily walked around.

 

Approach Notes:

Trail is as usual. Got a bit off route on the way back through the avy debris, but no big deal. Oh, by the way, the road to the TH should be open within days, according to Marblemount

[swaterfall]

Sweet d00d. Is your gf psyched on alpine climbing now?

[Pandora]

Yeeeehaaww! Next time take me with you!

 

[ivan]

shit, hannah, you'd have to climb that thing twice to feel like you'd had a normal climb.

[Chad_A]

Haha, no shit, ivan!

 

Seth- Yeah, she said she's definitely game for something a bit harder next time. Donn had mentioned Glacier Peak; I'll have to look into the guides, and see what I can scare up for her

 

Hannah- You should come along sometime! I'd like you to get to know Megan, if you're so inclined. She'd be well served to meet another female alpine climber to identify with, if ya know what I mean;) Let me know if you have an easy objective in mind...maybe we can talk Seth into coming, too