matt_m Posted July 6, 2004 Share Posted July 6, 2004 (edited) Climb: Mt Garfield-Infinite Bliss Date of Climb: 7/4/2004 Trip Report: Did this on the Holiday and had a blast. Started hiking around 7am and started the climb at 7:50. There was a party starting P2 above us so someone had even more motivation then us to get up early that morning. Weather was pretty dank - we kept saying it would burn off but visibility was poor almost all the way to the top - I'm talking max 100' most of the way and less at some points - we basically climbed in a cloud the whole way up. It cleared off on the way down though which was wild because all of a sudden the clouds clear and you get 2500' of exposure - SWEET. Back to the climb... We quickly simul-climbed up to the part above and they we nice enough to let us climb though. So we turned the first four pitches into one big one. Good stuff. Linked the next two to the top of 6 (End of the very polished granite slabs). We had brought about 20 draws and next time I'll probably bring even more (well - draws and 2' slings) This lets you link LOTS of stuff. Key to moving quickly. P7 runs you up some chunky metamorphic rock to a large ledge/dish system. Had some trouble route finding because visibility was below 50'. The huge dike to right is obvious IF you can see it though - It was laughable on the way down. Onward and Upward. p11 .10b is really good and clean - classic granite face climbing. With enough toys you can link 11 and 12 - I didn't but would next time. A full 60m if you do. Ok - so at the top of 15 - here's where all the "problems" occur. Keep in mind I couldn't see more than 80' right now. From the top of 15 you scramble up and right along a fairly obvious ramp for about 250'. You'll pass two scrubby low bushes before you reach and larger, obvious cedar bush - maybe 2 or 3' high. From the cedar bush go STRAIGHT UP about 100'. 3 bolt anchor with red tat tied on it. this is the only pitch where you have to simul but you could probably get in a small cam or two along the way. Head up 170 feet with no bolts to next anchor (4th class). Route is obvious from here. Topped out in 8 1/2 hrs with two stops to snack and hydrate. Not bad considering the weather. Descent is LONG and you need to be really careful about sending rocks down. We simul-rapped most of the route but on the low angle 4th class pitch we fed the rope off our shoulders as we went - definitely the way to do this. The long 3rd class down climb would be hairy if it was wet so watch yourself - Not possible to rap (also dangerous because you would send a basket full of missiles down pulling your ropes) Once back at the top of 15 - straight forward rapping from here. Took us 3 hours. CTC in 13:20. Not bad although I definitely think this can be done CTC in less than 11. That would be a huge day with you hauling ass! Good route - long clip up.[Edit - probably a poor choice of words - you clip bolts on the way up but they are often spaced a good distance apart - so no, it's not a Frenchman's "Clip Up"] With the loose rock and scramble on the 16th and 17th combined with its length and weather potential people should be aware however that this isn't a cruiser casual route - solid skills are a must. Have fun and be safe. Edited July 6, 2004 by matt_m Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted July 6, 2004 Share Posted July 6, 2004 that route should be chopped, I volounteer to help do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted July 6, 2004 Share Posted July 6, 2004 give it up lambone. why bother??? what is done is done...just clip the bolts and smile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 6, 2004 Share Posted July 6, 2004 i think they should install flashing LED lights on the bolts to help route finding during low visibility conditions. and maybe a bottled water vending machine on the 16th belay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted July 6, 2004 Share Posted July 6, 2004 Please provide gps coordinates for each belay station. And a locker at the base of the route so I can secure my wallet and keys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted July 6, 2004 Share Posted July 6, 2004 bottled water??? do you think you are a fuking comedian... definitely a tully's... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted July 6, 2004 Author Share Posted July 6, 2004 that route should be chopped, I volounteer to help do it. Bah - another lame "chopper" response. The route is a long way from anywhere, is not over bolted and with proper management will have little impact on its surroundings (As opposed to the semi-auto GUNFIRE I got to hear for an hour while climbing it - WTF? people are concerned about climbers and their impact?!? - I'd venture that the small arms fire down below was effecting my wilderness experience ALOT more than the sound of my wire gate snapping closed) I'm against retro-bolting, grid bolting, poor bolting (ie next to a crack) chipping, lycra and bad beer among other things but bolting evangelists need to get over themselves. This route is no different than a long multi-pitch route you'd find in Tuolumne - should we chop all those too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 6, 2004 Share Posted July 6, 2004 bottled water??? do you think you are a fuking comedian... definitely a tully's... drinking beer on an alpine climb would be a SERIOUS SAFETY INFRACTION!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted July 6, 2004 Share Posted July 6, 2004 beer? tully's is coffee, idiot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 6, 2004 Share Posted July 6, 2004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnibmilc Posted July 6, 2004 Share Posted July 6, 2004 that route should be chopped, I volounteer to help do it. Lamboni, Go climb it. Then, chop it, including stations, on rappel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted July 7, 2004 Share Posted July 7, 2004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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