Good training workouts (was Finger board routines)

[dukiebird]

Hey there, newbie here, thought that I would actually take advantage of my account to post something. Does anyone out there have a great workout routine for a hang board/finger board (whatever you want to call it). I have a Metolius Simulator, and seeing as I am stranded at home in Renton and tied to a job this summer, I don't really have any great climbing at present, so the finger board will have to do. I'm looking to get freakishly strong so that I can do some good climbing once I get back to Bellingham, anyone with a good routine, I'd love to try it.

Edited July 9, 2004 by dukiebird

[dukiebird]

Anyone? Hello? Echo?

[dukiebird]

Well, that didn't work. How about any good workout routine that anyone has, for improving crimp strength, plyometrics, better contact strength, or better endurance and stamina for bigger climbs. C'mon, people, I know someone out there has come some sort of opinion on this...

[willstrickland]

Well durtybird, I think the deal is, most folks who use a finger board do it as a supplement to their other training (typically gym climbing).

 

There are plenty of routines printed in magazines, books, etc. They all involve sets of timed hangs from various grips on the board.

 

Example would be 3 x 30sec from each of the following grips: open hand grip on 1 pad flat edge, half crimp on same edge, full crimp on same edge, middle and ring finger in 2 finger pocket, middle and index in two finger pocket. If you can't last for the full set, use a bungy under your feet to take some weight off. If you can easily do the set, add some weight with a weight belt or backpack or hang something from your harness, whatever.

 

You will have real problems trying to develop plyo type power on a single fingerboard. That type of power is usually training on a systems or campus rung set-up. Contact strength is essentially how fast your muscles fire (basically how fast do you develop your maximum grip strength once you start gripping...we're talking fractions of a second). Campusing is one way to work it. Take campusing in small doses, it's very very hard on your connective tissue and joints (and it will make you wicked strong if you don't injure yourself).

 

You are not going to do any effective endurance training on a fingerboard. Putting in serious cardio training will do more for your endurance than anything you can do on a fingerboard.

 

You would be better served by using one of the local climbing gyms where you can train power/strength/endurance and some forms of technique in cycles.

 

BTW, I hear there's some sweet granite in Renton, over there behind that school..you should maybe check that out.

[dukiebird]

Which school? If there are any good climbs near Renton, I'd love to hear about them, too. Thanks for the response, willstrickland, thats what I was looking for.

[Dru]

Fingerboards are so 1980s. The serious use of fingerboards died out about the time gyms and home walls grew in popularity. But theres still no better medium for showing off a one-finger pullup on in your rock climbing video

[willstrickland]

Here's a link to a routine from Metolius's site:

 

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/howto-advancedrr.htm

 

Note: After reading their routine, I would not try to follow it. Adopt some of the "tasks" and tailor it to your own level. If you can do that routine as they list it, in the 10 minute time frame they allot, you probably don't need to be training.

 

And one from wankfest central with beg/int/adv routines:

 

http://www.8a.nu/eng/articles/hangboarding.shtml

Edited July 9, 2004 by willstrickland

[Distel32]

oh yeah Dukiebird!!!!!!!

 

Hey man I was just finishing writing your email. Come up to the house and I can show you what I've been doing on the hangboard.

 

tell Dee I say hi next time you talk to her.

[tomtom]

Which school? If there are any good climbs near Renton, I'd love to hear about them, too. Thanks for the response, willstrickland, thats what I was looking for.

 

There’s a sweet 5.9 granite handcrack in Renton. I saw some exposed rock near an elementary school and that tipped me off to the multi pitch crag beyond the fence. The best climb is a two pitch handcrack kind of like Classic Crack in Leavenworth. Someone had already established this and about three other similar climbs in the area. I’ve done it everyday that it’s been dry, since I live nearby, and I want to be the first to solo it. I can’t believe there’s such good granite on the Westside!

 

 

Details here.

[dukiebird]

Uh huh... I'm inexperienced, not fucking stupid. If that rock is in the same Renton that I have lived in my entire life, then purple unicorns wearing hot pants can jump out of my ass, shake my hand and make me the king of Sweden. What up Distel?!?! How ya doin, man. Dee says Hi.

[gravity_illustrated]

Your best bet is to just start climbing...

www.edgeworks-climbing.com

Opening in Sept. so you'll have all fall, winter and spring to get strong and work on your technique for that mass of granite behind the school in Renton.