[TR] Mt Baker- Coleman/Deming/Roman Wall 6/26/2004

[BreezyD]

Climb: Mt Baker-Coleman/Deming/Roman Wall

 

Date of Climb: 6/26/2004

 

Trip Report:

After a defeat two weekends ago due to weather and poor visibility, our group headed back up to Baker to take another stab at it. Weather was great Saturday a.m. as we made our way to our 7000' camp. Conditions were good, some crevasses opening up on the lower Coleman, but otherwise made for good walking. I was impressed to find that they had installed toilets at the 7000' camp. You would be hard pressed to find a toilet with a better view than up there on that ridge! The weather came in during the afternoon and limited visibility until after dinner when things cleared up again and we got a clear view of the summit.

 

I woke on Sunday morning to my Dad saying "Bri, you've got to get out here and look at the city lights and the stars." Those were the sweetest words I have ever heard. Overnight, all of the weather had cleared and we had clear skies for miles. Left camp at 4:00 a.m. and made our way up the upper Coleman to the saddle. A few crevasses to jump and debris to circumnavigate en route made the journey fun and interesting. We took our time on the way up, enjoying the dawn light and scenery. The cool conditions made for great cramponing up most of the route. After a quick break at the saddle, we headed up the Roman Wall and summited around 8:30 a.m. The weather was perfect on the summit allowing us to linger, eat, photograph, and rest for well over an hour until we decided it was time to head down before things heated up too much.

 

Descended the Roman Wall with great conditions. Below the saddle, the crampons came off when the snow turned to slush. Between the heat of the morning, and the crappy snow conditions, it made for a long slog back to camp.

 

After a quick lunch, we packed up and headed out, blazing down the trail to the cars ... and the beer!

 

Couldn't ask for a better trip! I posted some photos in my gallery for those interested.

 

Side Note: On the way out, we started hearing helicopters circling the mountain. Once back into Glacier, we ran into mountain rescue who told us that there was an injured climber on the north side of the mountain that they were trying to pluck off the hill. For whatever reason, the helicopters couldn't pick him up directly so they dropped personnel at the ski area that were making their way up there. Keeps you mindful of the fact that you just never know what is in store when you head to the hills.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Standard Glacier Gear

[Dru]

send send send

you blew the onsight and settled for the redpoint!

[robert]

Side Note: On the way out, we started hearing helicopters circling the mountain. Once back into Glacier, we ran into mountain rescue who told us that there was an injured climber on the north side of the mountain that they were trying to pluck off the hill. For whatever reason, the helicopters couldn't pick him up directly so they dropped personnel at the ski area that were making their way up there. Keeps you mindful of the fact that you just never know what is in store when you head to the hills.

 

Anyone have any more information on the injury? My partner and I were going to climb the North Ridge Sunday, but we turned around at the base of the snow slope at 8000' after I suffered a bout of food poisoning. We ran into Stephen and Elaine Ramsey while we were both crossing the Coleman and watched them top out the slope as we were getting back to the tents. I know that there were supposed to be some other cc.comers on the route, but I didn't see anyone but the Ramseys. Of course there are other north side routes, but any information would be appreciated.

 

 

 

Otherwise, congratulations on getting to the summit. Were you at the higher of the two groups of tents and the black buttes? We were at the lower end in a blue and grey megamid.

[John Frieh]

3rd round knockout: good work B and definitely good work B's papa!

[BreezyD]

Robert - We were the group of three tents closest to the toilets. What a choice spot!

 

I saw your megamid down slope ... had I only known it was a fellow cc.comer down there ... I would have popped in to say hello!

 

B

[cracked]

I heard that Steve Ramsey broke his lower leg. He was choppered out to Harborview.

[robert]

Wow. What a bummer. I am glad it is not more serious than a broken leg. Here is to a speedy recovery.

[Macson]

We were at the 6,000' camp Sunday. On the way up we heard that a climber had a broken ankle and was waiting for an evacuation. I think it was around 4:00 when we saw what looked like a coast guard helocopter circling the mountain. It looked to me like they were searching for the injured climber. They left and returned several times and from our vantage point it looked like they either landed or hovered very low around 9:00 or so for the last time.

 

I hope everything turns out all right for him.

 

By the way, B, good job on the summit! I summited Baker for the first time yesterday and the conditions were excellent up there, just as you described.