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Conditions on North Ridge of Mt Stuart?


whodgman

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Anyone climb the North Ridge of Mt Stuart this year? Looking for any beta on the condition of the route and the approach from Ingalls Lake - snow on route, what's the gulley to gain the ridge like, the Stuart glacier, upper route, the descent down the Cascadia Couloir??? Any fresh beta is appriciated. I'm scheduled to lead the route the 1st weekend in August.

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Was on the West ridge this weekend. The approach to ingalls pas is snow free. crossing over to the lake was no problem. There are still snow fields around the lake, and early in the morning actually made for some pleasant walking over the normal scree. The path toward the west ridge was snow free. The area aroung goat pass appeared reasonable. Stuart itself is virtually free of snow except down in the gulleys. It got a bit warm as the sun came out, just be sure to bring plenty of water on the route. Have fun.

Allen

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climbed it a couple weeks ago. 4th class gully stilled filled with snow to gain the ridge. as usual, carry water on the ridge as there is little snow melt to be had. the ridge is straight forward. as for the descent, aim for an obvious notch below the false summit - then up and over onto the cascadian. as lambone said, there will be steep snow at the top of the cascadian which could be icy. take the longs pass trail to shorten the walk back to the car - the trail will dissipate into a creek bed. have a good time. cheers.

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