Upper Black Dyke - Squish

[matt_m]

Anyone done this recently? Thinking about it as a continuation of the grand off Bellygood. McLane says it's good but looking for more recent info as well.

[fern]

 

I have heard it described as "a serious sort of fun". Some creaky/loose flakes and healthy runouts. The top pitches of Millenium Falcon are another option in that neighbourhood.

[stinkyclimber]

Just remember that this route falls within this year's peregrine falcon closure through until July 31. See Murray's posting from mid-May

[chucK]

Looking at Murray's posting it looks like those closures may not pertain to stuff above Bellygood? Is this the case; i.e., are the portions of the Millenium Falcon and Black Dike that are above Bellygood closed?

[fern]

 

I am pretty sure that the closed area only extends up to Bellygood. The nest is in the Western Dihedrals which is below and south of UBD. The wording of the closure is a little ambiguous but I interpret it to mean the vertical extent of the closure is from 100m above the ground up to Bellygood.

[Sol]

A friend of mine fell on the second or third pitch of this route about 2 years ago when a hold broke. he fell around 40-50 feet and broke both his ankles. he required a rescue and set a record for the longest lower in squamish history (something like 1000 ft.). he does not really climb technical rock anymore. he was onsighting 5.11 in the valley at the time and had just onsighted the grand wall with his partner. from what he said the route is pretty runout on old bolts with loose rock. he did say that at the beginning of the third pitch he saw a line of brand new bolts going out left. It turns out this is a somewhat new variation that was bolted to avoid that third pitch, it goes at 10c. it's up to you, but with all that beautiful and solid granite around why climb a chossy basalt dike?

[Dru]

the new pitch is to the right, not the left?

[fern]

 

I read another access society bulletin about the bird closure, which states that while the routes between Black Dyke and Freeway are closed from 80m height up to Bellygood, Black Dyke and Freeway are themselves not closed.

[Cairns]

with all that beautiful and solid granite around why climb a chossy basalt dike?

 

Anyone done On Tilt?